Did you know that lots of HVAC systems create condensate? Some systems even create so much water that a small box called a condensate pump is needed.

A condensate pump might be a small box, but it plays a big role in condensate drainage. But what exactly is it and what is its purpose? Well you’ve come to the right place, because this blog is all about condensate pumps. Let’s dive in!

What Is Condensate?

To understand what a condensate pump is, it helps to first know what condensate is. Condensate refers to the liquid that forms when steam or vapor in the air cools and condenses. It commonly occurs when warm air flows across a cold surface.

This happens on a daily basis in HVAC systems and appliances such as furnaces, air conditioners, refrigerators, water heaters, and dehumidifiers.

Mechanically induced condensation is normal and it is something these devices have drains for. This is even more relevant now where new furnaces have a sealed combustion chamber where water has nowhere to evaporate.  However, there isn’t always a great place to drain the water. So now what?

What Is a Condensate Pump?

As household appliances continually operate, their condensate byproduct will start to accumulate. This liquid needs to be efficiently removed to ensure the proper functioning and longevity of the equipment.

Some systems can dispose of the condensate simply through the use of gravity. A pipe (usually PVC) is fitted onto the unit, which then channels the liquid to a drain or designated disposal area, as shown below.

However, sometimes the nearest drainage option is not so convenient. For instance, you may have a furnace that is located in a basement, but all the drainage piping is one floor above. What do we do with all this condensate? This is where a condensate pump comes in handy.

A condensate pump is a motorized pump meant to collect the condensate from an appliance then push it to a drainage point. Because it is powered, it can move the excess liquid anywhere, even to higher elevations.

How Does It Work?

These pumps operate in a fairly simple but very effective manner.

1. The condensate drains into the pump and accumulates in a collection tank.
2. Once the liquid reaches a specified level, a built-in float will switch on and activate the motor.
3. Upon activation, the motor will draw the liquid through a flexible hose, which will terminate at a designated drainage point such as a floor drain, a sink, or an external drainage system.
4. The process will continue until the float switches off and indicates that the tank is empty.

The functionality is similar to many pumps in your home such as sump pumps and lift stations.

Why Is a Condensate Drainage Important?

Having the proper condensate drainage is important in several ways. First of all, it prevents water accumulation in the equipment that could otherwise lead to a number of water-related issues, such as leaks, structural damage or even mold growth.

It also helps to ensure that the equipment is operating efficiently without the hindrance of excess moisture. The water will accumulate no matter what so it needs to go somewhere.

Proper drainage also helps to extend the equipment’s lifespan, ensuring that no excess moisture will cause corrosion or other mechanical issues. By preventing the buildup of stagnant water, condensate drainage also helps to maintain better indoor air quality, reducing the risk of mold and mildew.

Because of this, ensuring your condensate drainage setup is functioning can make a big difference!

Inspecting Condensate Lines and Pumps

During our standard inspections, our inspectors always take a look at all heating and cooling systems. And that includes their condensate drainage. We want to see that a drainage line is connected properly and terminating at an acceptable point. Of course, if there is nowhere for it to drain via gravity, it must be set up with a condensate pump.

If a pump is present, we visually inspect the unit to see if the pump is doing its job correctly. We also inspect the drain line, which is usually made of a flexible plastic material, to ensure it is terminating at a proper location.

One key fact to remember is that condensate can be highly acidic. So much so, that it can corrode cast iron piping. Cast iron is very rarely used for plumbing in modern buildings, but it is still present in many older homes.

If our inspectors do notice that a condensate line is draining into cast iron piping, they will be sure to call it out and recommend installing a condensate neutralizer. A condensate neutralizer is a box or tube filled with pellets made of calcium carbonate, CO2, and salt that will neutralize acidic liquid as it passes through.

Book Scott Home Inspection

If you are based in Colorado and in need of a reliable home inspection company, look no further! Scott Home Inspection has been in the business for 18+ years with over 34,600 inspections under our belt. In addition to home inspections, we also offer a multitude of add-on services, such as sewer scope inspections, radon testing, water quality testing and much more.

So don’t hesitate to visit us online to learn more, or contact us to book your inspection services today!

When it comes to heating homes, there is a multitude of ways to get the job done. Whether you are using a furnace, a boiler, a heat pump or any other mechanism, there will always be pros and cons. But what happens when you combine two different systems and pair their redeeming qualities together? That’s just the case with hydronic forced air heating. This advanced method combines the efficiency of water-based heating with the widespread distribution capabilities of forced air. So how does it work?

What Is Hydronic Forced Air Heating?

Hydronic forced air is a unique system that combines a high efficiency water heater or boiler paired with an air handler. When you turn up the heat on the thermostat, water is heated up inside the water heater or boiler. Next the water is pumped out of the heating source, and through piping that runs into the air handler.

Air is then forced across this now heated tubing, and subsequently pushed to the living space(s) through ducts by a blower fan. The air can now heat your living space to your desired temperature! With the addition of an outdoor condenser, these systems can also come equipped with cooling capabilities. This process may sound familiar as it uses similar technology to heat pumps and AC units.

Where Is Hydronic Forced Air Used?

This type of method can technically be used in any type of home, as long as there is space for the necessary equipment and ductwork. However, we don’t see it too often in smaller single family homes.

It is most commonly found in large commercial or apartment buildings with multiple floors and independent units that require individual climates. At Scott Home Services, we perform standard home and rental inspections on multi-family apartment complexes. So our inspectors come across hydronic forced air systems frequently.

Hydronic Forced Air To The Rescue!

This technique is especially useful in apartments for several reasons. First of all, it eliminates the need of installing individual furnaces or boilers for each unit. You can imagine the amount of time and effort it would take to install individual heating/cooling systems per unit in one of these large, multi-floor Denver apartment buildings. It takes additional venting, and space, and adds a host of new regulations when you add another fuel-burning appliance to a unit.

Instead, many buildings will install large boilers or water heaters in a main utility room. Then they send individual water lines to each apartment unit. Once these lines have entered a dwelling, they are fed through an air handler (like the one shown below), which distributes conditioned air to the living space.

This unique hybrid method is also efficient when it comes to optimizing the use of building materials. Because water lines are sent from the heating source (i.e. boiler or water heater) directly to each unit, there is no need for ductwork until after the piping reaches the air handler. As a result, builders are able to cut down drastically on duct construction.

In addition to ducting, if the the domestic hot water and boiler are hosted in a large community utility room, it has the added benefit of not needing to run gas piping to each unit!

Conversely, the system transitions from hydronic to forced air once entering an apartment. That means that piping is not needed for any type of radiant heating within the space. Using a hydronic radiant heating method for every unit would not only be costly but also very time-consuming. So builders are able to save money and installation time with this hybrid technique.

But this doesn’t just benefit the builders. As an owner or a tenant of these units, a hydronic heating system reduces the maintenance and upkeep needed. Since the boiler then serves the whole building, they are generally maintained by the building staff. That means that replacing air filters and ensuring the blower is operational is all you need to do. If the blower is fed with a water heater in the unit, then you would maintain the water heater as you would anywhere else.

How Do We Inspect These Systems?

We proudly serve a wide geographical area, from Wellington all the way to Colorado Springs. That means that we are inspecting a lot of multi-family dwellings. When inspecting any heating configuration in a home, our inspectors employ a two-step process – visual and operational.

First, they will visually inspect all accessible components of the system. Of course, there are many parts hidden behind the drywall. And inspecting a large heating unit that services a whole building is out of the scope of our standard inspection. However, we can usually gain access to the air handler, which can likely be found in the bathroom or hallway ceiling (as shown below), or in a utility closet. The inspector will look for any noticeable defects or damage, and report as necessary.

Secondly, we will turn on the heat and air conditioning (if the season permits it). Our inspectors utilize an infrared thermometer to measure the temperature of the air exiting the supply vents. In the case that the air is not reaching the temp selected on the thermostat, we will recommend further evaluation and repair.

Unfortunately, we are at the mercy of the building cycles. Often larger buildings in Colorado will shut down their boilers and turn on their chillers for the summer. This is common practice and in that scenario, we can’t test the heat. However, since the boilers and chillers use the same blower, we can still evaluate what’s present.

Are you in need of a Colorado home or rental inspection? Scott Home Services has got you covered! Visit us online to learn more or contact us to book your inspection services today!

So you just moved into your brand new beautiful house. The home inspection is complete and everything is looking great! But after a few days you start to notice something strange – even when you try to switch it off, the bathroom exhaust fan keeps running continuously by itself. What’s up with that?

As a home inspection company, we come across this feature quite commonly these days. And we will even have clients calling about it from time to time. The good news is that your exhaust fan is not broken. It’s supposed to be like that! It all comes down to maintaining interior air quality.

Wanted: Fresh Air

In this day and age, it’s all about energy-efficient homes. Modern building codes have grown stricter, requiring new construction and add-ons to have a certain level of airtightness to minimize air leakage. This is a great step for energy efficiency! However, new homes now lack that level of “breathability” that older, draftier residences might have had. As a result, we need a way to keep the interior air fresh.

Lack of sufficient airflow and ventilation can be a real problem. It can result in excess moisture that could promote mold growth or cause moisture-related damages to the interior. It could lead to unpleasant odors, and overall unclean air. You don’t want to be breathing in stagnant air, so make sure you get that fresh oxygen flowing!

There are two main ways to achieved a consistent supply of fresh air in a newly built home: an HRV/ERV system or a continuous or timed-controlled ventilation system.

HRV and ERV Systems

An HRV (or Heat Recovery Ventilator) system is installed in the home as an addition to the furnace. It is used to expel the stale, used air from indoors and replace it with fresh air from the exterior. This apparatus is designed to extract heat from the outgoing air and add it to the incoming fresh air. A design that really helps to conserve energy!

An ERV (or Energy Recovery Ventilator) system does virtually the same thing as an HRV, except that it factors in heat and humidity. Depending what the in-home environment needs, this machine can either extract humidity or add humidity to incoming air. It’s especially helpful in those particularly wet climates.

As you can see, HRV and ERV systems are going to act as a set of “lungs,” providing an airtight home with fresh, breathable air.

For more info about HRV and ERV Systems, check out our blog: HRV and ERV Systems: What You Should Know

Continuous Or Timer Controlled Exhaust Fans

If you don’t have an HRV/ERV, you’ll need a continuous or timer-controlled exhaust fan to maintain a healthy household. This is a simple fan that resembles a bathroom exhaust fan that mechanically vents air to the outside of the home. It is certainly a suitable alternative to the HRV/ERV setup. This device can usually be found on the top floor of the residence, either in a bathroom, the laundry room, or sometimes even the kitchen.

While running, the fan will typically pull air at a lower speed, around 30-50 cubic feet per minute (CFM). Then if you need it to expel excess moisture after a shower or fumes after cooking, it will allow you to turn up to a higher speed, around 50 – 110 CFM for bathrooms, 100 CFM and up for kitchens.

There are also fans that don’t run all day, but instead are programmed to run on an incremental schedule. For instance, you might find that your fan kicks on four times per day for two-hour periods. Different fans have varying programmable settings, and the best settings for your house all depend on the size of the house and power of the fan.

You may be wondering where the fresh air will come from in this configuration. As the continuous exhaust fan pulls air from the home, its suction creates a negative pressure which draws in air from leaks and cracks in the envelope. (Yes, even homes with top-notch thermal envelopes will generally have some degree of air leakage.) This, in turn, creates a consistent cycling of fresh air through the residence.

These fans are generally high quality, and energy efficient. And they are designed to be super quiet, so as not to bother the residents. In fact, some fans are so quiet that homeowners will think they aren’t working. On more than one occasion, we have had callbacks with clients claiming their bath fans won’t turn on. Upon re-inspection, we found it’s not broken, it’s just nice and quiet!

Continuous Exhaust Fans vs HRV/ERV

Even though the continuous/timer-controlled ventilation option is designed to optimize energy use, it will still likely be less energy efficient than the HRV/ERV option. While it is creating a consistent air flow through the house, it is also expelling conditioned air and replacing it with unconditioned air. That new air now needs to be heated or cooled to the desired interior temp. An action that requires – you guessed it – more energy.

On the other hand, the HRV will use the heat from the outgoing air and add it to the incoming air. The ERV takes it a step further and factors in humidity levels, as well. When air is entering the home already conditioned, that equals less work for the furnace or AC.

Because of this, newer mechanical codes are starting to phase out the continuous ventilation method. Boulder County is one such county that has implemented this update. As energy codes continue to evolve, it will be interesting to see the direction that residential air circulation will go. Will continuous exhaust fans eventually be completely phased out? Only time will tell.

Ask Your Inspector

Here at Scott Home Inspection, we love talking about houses! So if you have any questions or thoughts about in-home ventilation (or any other home-related topic), feel free to reach out through our “Ask Your Inspector” program.

We have been offering inspection services to the CO Front Range for over 18 years. And it is always our goal to provide our clients with the most professional, reliable, and trustworthy services. If you are in need of a Colorado home inspection, we hope that you will consider Team Scott! For more information, you can visit us online. Or you can contact us to book your inspection today!

Having good indoor air quality in the residential setting is essential to healthy and safe living. The kitchen is one of those rooms that can heavily influence the content of your indoor air – think steam, smoke, grease, fumes etc. It’s no wonder then that so many kitchens are equipped with exhaust fans.

As an experienced Colorado Home Inspection company, we have grown accustomed to varying scenarios of kitchen ventilation. And the fact is that not all kitchens have exhaust fans. Many of our clients tend to find this odd. Some even think it is in violation of some type of code.

But are exhaust fans actually required in residential kitchens? In this blog, we will discuss it in more detail and hopefully help to clear up the air (pun intended).

The Truth About Kitchen Exhaust Fans

Believe it or not, exhaust fans are not technically required in residential kitchens. If you take a look at Section 501 of the International Mechanical Code (IMC), you will find extensive rules regarding commercial kitchen ventilation, but the same rules do not apply in the domestic setting.

While it is not mandated by code, it is certainly still a good idea to equip your kitchen with some solid ventilation. We’ve all been in those situations when a hot pot of pasta billows steam into the air, or a plume of smoke exits the microwave when popcorn is left in for too long. Now all of a sudden you have a cloud of haze that needs somewhere to go. In these common scenarios, exhaust fans come in clutch!

That’s why we are always on the lookout when conducting home inspections. If our inspectors notice that a kitchen exhaust fan is missing or defective, they will be sure to make note of it in their report.

Ducted vs Ductless Exhaust Systems

There are two primary exhaust systems – ducted and ductless. Ducted systems are a common configuration, generally seen as a range hood set up over a stove top. When configured properly, their ducts should be set up to terminate at the outside of the home.

Our inspectors keep a close eye on these exhaust systems. Any duct that is terminating inside the home will definitely be flagged for repair. Section 505 of the 2018 IMC has a breakdown of all the requirements for exhaust duct design.

Even though it is not required by code, we still strongly recommend ducted exhaust systems in kitchens with gas stoves. This is the most effective way to direct potentially harmful fumes, moisture and even carbon monoxide out of the house and away from fresh breathing air.

On the other hand, ductless exhaust systems (sometimes known as recirculation exhaust systems) do not terminate outside. Instead, these devices take in kitchen fumes and run them through charcoal filters. The remaining byproduct is a much more reduced and neutral vapor, which is expelled out of the exhaust device.

We have had many clients who are skeptical about ductless exhaust fans. However, as long as you have an electric stove and good filters in your system, this a perfectly viable option. In fact, it is a great alternative when building a duct system is not a feasible option.

Clearing Up The Air

Here at Scott Home Inspection, a division of Scott Home Services, we are all about helping Colorado Families live in safe, healthy, and comfortable homes. So it follows that, regardless of national code, our inspectors will usually advocate for some type of sufficient ventilation method.

If you have any other questions feel free to reach out to us on our Ask Your Inspector page. Also, if you are in need of home inspection services, feel free to visit us online or contact us today!

Each year when spring comes around, it’s a time to shake off all that winter dust and spruce up your property. It’s spring cleaning time!

Winters can be rough (especially in Colorado), so by the time spring rolls around, many components of the home will be ready for a much needed cleaning and/or maintenance. A little extra care can really prove to go a long way.

As a homeowner, there is of course, a multitude of items that will need your attention during spring cleaning. However, in this blog, we will focus on HVAC maintenance and cleaning.

What should you do each spring in order to optimize HVAC performance? Well, let’s take a closer look.

Note: Many of these items are geared towards the DIY homeowner. While none of these items are inherently dangerous, if you don’t feel comfortable maintaining the items yourself, we suggest you hire a professional HVAC contractor for an annual or bi-annual service on your systems. 

Change Your Furnace Filter

Depending on how hard your furnace worked during the winter, you will likely need to change (or clean) your furnace filter. Having heated the house all season long, this thing is probably going to be dirty!

The air filter is responsible for removing dust, pollen, hair, and other contaminants from the air circulating throughout your home.

A clean filter can really make a difference in air quality. It’s no wonder then why it is so important to keep the filter clean.

It’s always advisable to reference the owner’s manual to determine how to properly remove/replace the filter. The manual will also indicate the correct filter size.

Clean out Your Furnace Cabinet

The next step in HVAC maintenance is to check the furnace cabinet. Again, your owner’s manual will tell you how to shut off the unit and remove the furnace doors properly, in order to access the cabinet.

It is recommended to clean the cabinet with a shop vac, where possible. Some parts of the furnace might be too delicate for a high powered vacuum – in those cases, it’s better to use a brush or compressed air to remove dust and debris.

Annually cleaning the inside of your furnace will not only help to increase the overall performance and longevity of the device, but it will also help to prevent dirt and dust in the cabinet from making its way into the duct system.

Humidifier Maintenance

If you live in a predominantly dry region, you likely have a humidifier attached to your HVAC system. During winter months, the air is usually drier, making it necessary to really put the humidifier to work. So by the time spring comes around, your humidifier filter will probably need to to be cleaned or replaced. Similar to the the furnace air filter, this a relatively easy task for a homeowner.

Refer to your user’s manual for proper removal/replacement directions. The manual will also indicate the correct type and size of the filter, if replacement is necessary.

Keep in mind that in the spring and summer months, you can turn your humidifier down. There will be more moisture in the air and no need to compensate as much with your humidifier. The amount of humidity needed varies from home to home, so it might be a matter of testing different settings to find a level suitable for you.

Clean Off Your AC Unit

After the indoor components have been spruced up, it’s time to head outside to check on your trusty air conditioning unit. Springtime means that warm weather is on its way, so your AC system should be ready to go!

The winter likely did a number on your unit, making it dirty. If the exterior condenser fins are clogged up by dirt and debris, the unit will not be able to expel heat properly; and thus it will not be able to cool the interior of the home efficiently. So taking that extra time to clean it up will certainly help to ensure optimum performance.

To clean the unit, first turn off the power to the unit (do not forget this step). Then remove the exterior panels off the device, being careful not to misplace any of the hardware. You can then use a brush to remove all debris and dust from the condenser fins. To get an even deeper cleanse, you can hose off the fins, spraying from the top downward (not inward). If there is buildup on the inside of the fins, use the hose to gently spray from the inside of the unit outward.

Test Your AC Unit

Now that it’s time to get that air conditioning fired up, it helps to make sure that it’s performing properly. Checking your air conditioning temperature drop is an easy way ensure that it’s working effectively.

To clarify, the temperature drop is how cold the unit is making the air it is supplying to the home, compared to the air that it is taking in.

Run your AC for several minutes. Then, using an infrared thermometer, measure the temp of the air coming from a supply duct compared to the air entering a return duct. For a system that is working correctly, the temp differential should be 15-20 degrees.

Hire an HVAC Maintenance Company

Although all of the above mentioned items can be DIY, it all depends on what you’re comfortable with. The alternate route, of course, is to hire a qualified professional that can help you with your HVAC maintenance needs. This will generally be the pricier route, but it’s a great way to get an expert evaluation on your HVAC situation.

There are certain things the a professional HVAC company can handle better than the average DIY homeowner. One such maintenance item is duct cleaning. This is something you won’t necessarily need every year, but it’s definitely good practice to do it periodically as needed.

While there are some duct cleaning techniques that you can do on your own, they won’t be as thorough as a professional cleaning.

Inspecting HVAC Components

During our standard home inspections, we are always sure to inspect all HVAC components for functionality and condition. We always advocate for routine maintenance, especially after those harsh Colorado winters!

If we see any unkept furnaces, dirty AC Units, insufficient AC temperatures, etc. we will surely make note of it in our reports.

If you are in need of a home inspection, we hope that you will consider Scott Home Inspection. Feel free to visit us for more information, or book your inspection today. But in the meantime, stay up on that spring HVAC maintenance!

Choosing the right in-home heating and cooling system is an important job. You need a product that will condition the living space safely, sufficiently and efficiently. There are a lot of different options out there, all with their own pros and cons. In this blog, we will shed light on the air source heat pump – a system with some unique features that make it stand out next to most of its HVAC competitors. So without further ado, let’s dive in!

What are Air Source Heat Pumps?

An air source heat pump (ASHP) is an energy efficient heating and cooling unit. It works differently from other combustion heating units because, instead of generating heat, it transfers the heat.

These devices generally consist of an outdoor unit and an indoor unit, which are connected by a refrigerant line. The heat pump works much like a refrigerator in reverse.

The outside unit extracts heat from the outside air. Then it pulls the air through a refrigerant coolant, which is then compressed to increase the temperature of the air. The warm air is then propelled into the home using a fan system.

The heat pump can also act as a cooling device. In this situation, the system pulls in warm from the home and sends it to the outside. Refrigerant is then circulated through the indoor unit, absorbing the heat in the air and redistributing cool and newly dehumidified air.

Different Types of ASHPs

There are several different varieties of air source heat pumps. You can have a single-zone or multi-zone system, which are fairly self explanatory. A single-zone system consists of one outdoor unit and one indoor unit, while a multi-zone will have one outdoor unit and two or more indoor units, installed in different locations within the residence.

ASHPs also can be ductless or ducted. Ductless systems consist of the traditional configuration – an indoor and outdoor unit, connected by a refrigerant line. These are commonly referred to as “mini-split” systems (shown below). These are generally meant to condition smaller spaces or single rooms.

As implied in their name, ducted ASHPs are configured with duct systems. They are set up the same way a normal HVAC duct system would be; and they can condition a whole home with heating and cooling.

ASHPs can also be installed as split or packaged systems. Split systems, which are the most common, involve one indoor unit with coils and one outdoor unit with coils (depicted in the above “Heating Cycle” diagram). In a packaged system, both coils are located in an outside unit.

The Benefits of Air Source Heat Pumps

Here are a few reasons why air sources heat pumps might be a great fit for you.

1. Energy efficient: ASHPs are much more efficient than traditional heating systems, such as boilers or furnaces. ASHPs deal with heat transfer, as opposed to heat production. As a result, they require less energy to produce the equivalent amount of heat.
2. Environmentally friendly: ASHPs are electric, non-combustion systems. So they emit much less carbon dioxide than traditional heating systems, making them a more environmentally friendly option.
3. Cost-effective: In addition to being more energy-efficient, ASHPs are also cost-effective in the long run, as they require less maintenance and have lower operating costs than traditional heating systems. Additionally, these units are usually only slightly more expensive than stand alone AC units. So if you plan to install an AC system anyway, it might be worth considering an ASHP for both cooling and heating.
4. Versatile: ASHPs can be used for heating, cooling, and hot water production, making them a versatile option for homes.
5. Solar-Compatible: Being that these units are electrical, they can be powered by solar panels. That way, if you are looking to convert completely to solar, this type of system is the right fit!

The Cons of Air Source Heat Pumps

While we love to talk about all the ASHP pros, we would be remiss not to mention the cons.

1. High Up-Front Costs: Although, in the long run, these systems could serve to save you some bucks, they tend to be a bit pricey in their upfront costs, compared to conventional HVAC products.
2. Higher Electric Bills: This is to be expected, but nonetheless, something to be aware of. If you convert from a gas-fueled system to an all electric heating/cooling system, your electric bills will increase.
3. Less Efficient at Low Temps: ASHP are unfortunately not very efficient at low temperatures. Joe Ophoff, our Director of Energy Services, states that “the drawback to [ASHP] systems is that you need an emergency backup of some kind. In our [Colorado] climate zone especially, when it’s super cold outside, a heat pump can’t do the job by itself.  So a mini split needs an electric baseboard unit to act as the emergency backup. Even ducted ASHP systems need an electric back up built into the air handlers. Basically, an electric furnace should get installed for the times that the heat pump can’t do the job.”

ASHPs and Energy Code

In this day and age, energy code has become such an important part of the building and remodeling process. One of the key steps in reaching energy code compliance is earning a satisfactory HERS rating.

The Home Energy Rating System (HERS) Index is the industry standard by which a home’s energy efficiency is measured.

Several different aspects contribute to the home’s overall HERS rating, including heating/cooling systems. If you are going the ASHP route, it will likely help your HERS rating. Due to their high efficiency design, air source heat pump systems generally yield better HERS performances over gas-fired equipment.

Speaking of HERS ratings…

Are you working on a new project or addition, and in need of HERS rating services? Well you came to the right place! At Scott Energy Services, we have a team of certified HERS raters, ready to help you with all of your energy code needs.

For more information about our energy services please visit us online and schedule your service today.

In this day and age, energy efficiency protocol is an integral part of the construction process. When it comes to newly built homes, everything from the building envelope to the HVAC must adhere to regulations established by the IECC.

As an energy services company we are well-versed in all the aspects related to energy code. However, in this article, we will put the microscope on HVAC systems in new builds, and what it takes to meet code compliance.

If you are involved in the building process, you have likely heard the terms Manual J, Manual S, Manual D or all together Manual JSD. These are different standards, put in place by the Air Conditioning Contractors of America (ACCA) that are used to calculate IECC-compliant HVAC design.

Each manual deals with a different aspect of the system, and they work together to ensure that the system is properly sized and installed to meet the needs of the building. Let’s take a closer look!

What is Manual J?

When determining proper HVAC design, Manual J is the first step. This step uses a series of calculations to determine a building’s heating and cooling load.

FYI: The heating load is the amount of heat energy that would need to be added to a space to maintain the temperature in an acceptable range. The cooling load is the amount of heat energy that would need to be removed from a space (cooling) to maintain the temperature in an acceptable range.

Manual J is able to make an accurate assessment by analyzing certain factors such as:

• Size and orientation of the building
• Type and number of windows and doors
• Insulation levels
• Lights and appliances
• Climate zone
• Number of occupants

What is Manual S?

So now that you have made all the proper load calculations with Manual J, what’s next? It’s time to move on to Manual S. This standard is utilized to determine and select the proper HVAC equipment needed in a given residence.

Manual S considers factors such as the size, efficiency, and capacity of the equipment. The equipment must sufficiently handle the heating/cooling load calculated by Manual J.

What is Manual D?

If the HVAC project requires a duct system, then Manual D will be a necessary step. This is an integral part of the process when determining ductwork design.

Manual D utilizes the findings yielded from Manual J (heating/cooling load) and S (system material). It also analyzes other factors, including the static pressure in every room, the friction rate, the location of the air handler, and the distance between each register.

Why Are Manual J, S, and D Reports So Important?

So, why is it so important to make all these evaluations? For starters, it might actually be required in your region. The majority of the country has adopted the IECC building code, which (as stated above) does require Manual J/S or Manual J/S/D evaluations and reports for new residential building projects. So be sure to meet all of your code requirements for your building permits!

But let’s set all that “code talk” aside now. Because, when it comes down to it, the most important thing is getting a quality product and saving money while doing so. No matter the size of your project, you (or your client) want to get the most bang for your buck.

By hiring a professional to make these crucial HVAC assessments, you will be able to choose a system that is customized exactly to the living space. This will ensure cost effectiveness, energy efficiency and overall in-home comfort.

Scott Mechanical Design

At Scott Mechanical Design, we have a team of energy code specialists certified to meet all of your mechanical system design needs. We offer two services – a Manual J and S Only Report and a Manual J, S, and D Report. You will need the Manual D included if duct work is involved in your project.

We offer these services nationwide and they are completely online! Our streamlined interface makes it easy for you to schedule a service and submit all the necessary building documents, so we can get to work.

We pride ourselves in generating, high-quality, IECC-compliant reports in a timely manner. If you are in need of a Manual J/S Report or Manual J/S/D Report, don’t hesitate to contact Scott Home Services for more information or book your service today!

If you own a newer home, it is likely equipped with an HRV or an ERV system. That is because these systems are crucial in maintaining in-home air quality. Nowadays, homes are built to meet high energy efficiency standards. They are constructed in an airtight manner, in order to keep conditioned air from leaking out of the house and unconditioned air from making its way into the house.

However, with such an airtight structure, how do we maintain safe, fresh interior air? That’s where HRV/ERV systems come in.

What is an HRV?

HRV stands for Heat Recovery Ventilator. This is a mechanism that expels stale air out of the home and brings fresh air into the home.

What makes this system unique is that it uses the heat from the outgoing exhaust air to heat up the incoming fresh air. By using the already existing heat from exhaust air, the HRV reduces the amount of energy needed to heat incoming air to the desired indoor temp. In other words, an HRV helps you save money on your heating bill!

Along their journeys through the HRV, the two air streams are sent through a ventilator core (labeled as 3 in the picture below). This is where their heat exchange occurs. The stale, outgoing air does not mix with the fresh air. On the contrary, both air streams remain in separate channels, and the heat transfer occurs through conduction.

What is an ERV?

ERV stands for Energy (or Enthalpy) Recovery Ventilator. It functions the same way as an HRV with one key difference. An HRV system only deals with heat transfer, while an ERV transfers both heat and humidity.

ERV units will generally be ideal in more extreme climates – such as tropical, humid climates or very cold, dry climates.

Let’s say you live in a tropical environment. As the energy recovery ventilator draws in the humid fresh air, it will extract the moisture and expel it into the outgoing, exhaust air. That way, when fresh air enters your home, it will not be uncomfortably humid.

Conversely, when it’s cold and dry outside, the ERV will extract the moisture from the stale exhaust air and add it to the incoming air.

Which Unit is Best For Me?

Before you decide on a unit type, you must first determine if you even need a ventilation system. Most all new houses are constructed to have an airtight building envelope and will need some type of ventilator.

However, if you are doing renovations, updating to an HRV system isn’t always necessary. Your new remodel might have a state-of-the-art thermal envelope; but the rest of the residence might still be somewhat “breathable”.

The best way to measure the air leakage of your home is by conducting a blower door test. During this test, a specialist assembles a large fan on an exterior door and seals up all other openings. The fan will then pull air out of the home in order to determine its level of air leakage.

If the blower door results come back at 3 ACH (air changes per hour) or lower, then a ventilation system is recommended.

As stated above, the right unit will generally depend on climate. In some cases, it’s pretty clear-cut. For instance, if you’re living in the deep south with super humid conditions, an ERV is probably the right choice for you. And if you’re up in the cold, dry regions of northern Canada, go with an ERV.

However, in the central parts of the US, climates are a little milder, with less frequent extreme conditions. In these areas, it’s not necessarily crucial to have one or the other. It’s more on a case-to-case basis, and sometimes a matter of personal preference.

For instance, Colorado has a generally dry climate, so a lot of CO homes have humidifiers built into their HVAC systems. This negates the need for the humidifying features of an ERV.

It’s best to consult with your contractor or an HRV/ERV specialist to determine the right unit for you.

OK, I have an HRV. What Now?

How and When To Use It

If your house is equipped with an HRV or ERV, it’s always a great idea to familiarize yourself with the unit. Have a chat with the specialist who installed it and read over the user’s manual.

These systems vary from model to model, but their controls are all fairly similar. There will always be a master control panel like the one pictured below. This is where you can configure all of the operation parameters, such as cycle frequency or maximum relative humidity.

Your system will generally have to run multiple times every day. You can usually set it on an intermittent, recurring schedule. For instance, you may want it to kick on for 20 minutes every hour.

Make sure to get in the habit of running the system each time a shower or bath is used. It is recommended to run the HRV (or ERV) for its maximum time (which is usually 60 minutes) to make sure all moisture has been removed.

Another common setting is the maximum relative humidity (often abbreviated as RH) setting. This is a handy feature when you want to make sure it doesn’t get too humid in your house. Just set the control panel to your preferred relative humidity. When the system detects the indoor relative humidity exceeding this limit, it will automatically start to run in order to expel the interior air and mitigate humidity levels.

How To Maintain It

Routine maintenance is an important way to ensure efficient performance and longevity – plus it’s super easy!

Make sure to reference your user’s manual to find out when and how to clean the unit, as this process varies slightly with each model. But again, they are all fairly similar; so maintenance procedures will generally be along these lines:

• The ventilator’s filters will need to be removed approximately every 2-3 months. Rinse these off with water and allow them to air dry.
• The ventilator core should be rinsed out with clean water. This should occur about every 6 months.
• Make sure to wipe out the HRV unit every time you access it, as significant amounts of dust and debris can build up over time.

Heat (or energy) recovery systems are, indeed, a very important component of the home. So it goes without saying that proper use and maintenance are crucial in ensuring that you have fresh, healthy in-home air year round.

Home Inspections

At Scott Home Inspection, it is our number one mission to help Colorado families live in safe, healthy, and comfortable homes. Being that ventilation systems are such a vital aspect of new homes, HRV and ERV inspections are part of our standard inspections.

Our inspectors will closely examine these units, checking to see that they are in good condition and functioning properly. If an inspector notes any defects or anomalies, they will be sure to call it out in the report for further evaluation.

If you are in need of a Colorado inspection, please don’t hesitate to reach out now for more information or to book your inspection today.

Furnaces and water heaters are key elements in any Colorado home. However, being that they are combustion appliances, they can pose safety and health hazards if not configured properly. One of the most common practices in the residential setting is to have these appliances installed in a combustion closet.

When it comes to Denver and Boulder rental properties, there are strict guidelines with regards to combustion closets or rooms. For rental license inspections, it all boils down to safety. A rental property needs to meet a list of standards in order to be deemed safe for its occupants.

Why Are Proper Combustion Closets So Important?

Combustion appliances are, by definition, fuel-burning. They combine a gas supply with oxygen in order to create fire. This reaction, in turn, heats your water and air.

The byproducts of this chemical reaction are carbon dioxide and water. In many cases, if the fire is not receiving enough oxygen, it will produce carbon monoxide, instead of carbon dioxide.

Carbon monoxide (CO) is highly toxic to humans if not ventilated properly. So, it follows that an enclosure with a combustion appliance must be built properly to ensure safe living conditions.

A fuel-burning device needs a source of fresh combustion air and an avenue for ventilation to expel its fumes. If the device does not have unhindered access to fresh air, it may begin to create negative pressure and pull the air it needs through the exhaust piping. Once that air is moving inward through the exhaust pipe, the fumes being produced as a byproduct have nowhere to go but back into the home. Now we have CO making its way into the living space, and that is an obvious problem.

It was common practice in many older homes to put combustion appliances in closets with louvered doors (shown below). The slats in these doors allow the appliance to draw fresh air in from the interior of the home. And if the ventilation flue is installed properly with no obstructions, this configuration should technically work.

However, according to code, using the louvered door method can be hazardous and especially unacceptable in certain locations such as the bedroom or bathroom.

For instance, if a fire were to break out in a bedroom combustion closet, without the proper fire-proofing precautions (i.e. a louvered door), the fire could quickly spread into the bedroom. Or what if a combustion device is located in bathroom closet with a louvered door? If someone turns on the exhaust fan, it could potentially create a backdraft and start to pull CO fumes into the bathroom.

Due to all these potential issues, it eventually became apparent that we needed to establish a standard for combustion appliances and how they are installed in the home.

Combustion Closets, By The Book

As mentioned above, when conducting rental license inspections in Boulder and Denver, inspectors are going to be paying close attention to the location and configuration of furnaces and water heaters. Both municipalities have similar standards. They have adopted the codes established in section 303.3 of the 2021 International Fuel Gas Code (IFGC).

So, can furnaces and/or water heaters be located directly inside bedrooms or bathrooms? No. However, they can be accessible through bedrooms or bathrooms, as long as they are contained in an isolated room or closet.

If a fuel-burning appliance is accessed through a bedroom or bathroom, it must be installed in a room or closet that is completely sealed with weather stripping and a door equipped with a self-closing device. Additionally, the appliance must have its own access to a source of combustion air from the outdoors. Furthermore, its exhaust must also terminate outside the home through its own dedicated piping. When built correctly, these combustion closets should have an airflow system that is operating independently of the living space.

The diagram below illustrates a water heater in one of the most efficient types of sealed combustion closets. Most new furnaces are built with direct ventilation systems (top picture shown above), meaning their intake and exhaust piping are mounted directly onto the appliance. These examples illustrates two different methods for proper combustion appliance configuration.

Utility rooms are commonly located in basements, and there are many basement rental units. It follows that the rental license guidebooks also address these specific living spaces. Any habitable part of the basement unit must be separated from any room containing fuel-burning appliances. According to section 4.2 of Denver’s residential rental program guidebook:

“If a fuel-fired furnace is located in a room that opens directly into an area used for sleeping, the two rooms must be separated by a solid core 1-hour fire-rated door with a smoke seal around it.”

Rental License Inspections

At Scott Home Inspection, we have been offering our rental license inspection services to the Boulder area for 10+ years. And now with the recently implemented Denver residential rental license requirements, we have several certified inspectors who are qualified to offer the same, high quality rental inspection services to the city of Denver.

When observing the combustion appliances in the home, our inspectors will consider a few key questions. Is the appliance functioning properly? Is it installed in a safe, and code-acceptable location? Does it have proper ventilation? Does it have an adequate combustion air supply? Any deficiencies noted at the time of inspection will be called out for repair and/or correction.

Our number one priority is to help Colorado families live in safe, healthy, and comfortable homes. So when assessing a rental property for licensing, our inspectors are as thorough as possible. We observe all aspects of the property as required by the municipality, and provide an unbiased pass or fail assessment.

If you are in need of a rental license, we recommend reviewing the applicable rental license guidebooks (City of Denver or City of Boulder) prior to the inspection.

We hope you will contact Scott Rental Inspections for your next Colorado rental license inspection! For more info, feel free to contact us today!

Whole house fans are still commonly found at our home inspections they come in a few different varieties. While most of them are very old units, many of them are still in working condition. There are also newer versions which we see on occasion as Colorado has a decent climate for a whole house fan system.

This type of powered cooling system became popular in the 1950s. It was a cheaper alternative to an air conditioning unit, had lower maintenance than an evaporative cooler, and worked fairly well in specific parts of the country.

However, the units had their shortcomings as well and fell out of popularity over the years as building science evolved.

In this article, we will quickly cover what a whole house fan is, the positives and negatives of having one, and the ideal scenarios for having one installed today.

What is a Whole House Fan?

A whole house fan is a large fan with a very high CFM (Cubic feet per minute) rating that is typically installed at the top floor of a home in the ceiling. This large fan is used as a type of exhaust fan to move hot air from your home to the exterior.

As heat in your home rises in the warmer months, it tends to build up near the highest floor ceiling as the attic insulation will keep the heat from transferring through to the attic.

When a whole house fan is operated, it would blow the heat build-up in this area into the attic space which is typically vented, and the air would be pushed out.

This would create a negative pressure within the house itself, and pull cooler air from the lower areas of the home.

A common technique used while running a whole house fan is cracking or opening windows on a lower level of the home to pull cooler air upwards.

This is a nice way to cheaply cool a home when the temperatures outside are not too extreme. This is particularly effective in the evenings and mornings.

Pros and Cons Of A Whole House Fan

The main benefits of a whole house fan system are the cost, ease of installation, and maintenance. The cost to install a system is far lower than a traditional central air system. All that is required is the fan assembly itself, and a place to vent it.

A traditional AC system requires a very expensive compressor unit, coolant lines that run through your home, and a duct and blower system. While many homes already have a furnace with ducts, some do not which makes installing a traditional air conditioning system very difficult and expensive. A whole house fan can be a great option in this scenario.

Whole house fans also offer the benefit of basically zero maintenance.  The fan is always ready to go and newer units require no winterization.

So for a relatively low cost, you can add a simple cooling system to your house. But what are the drawbacks?

Let’s start with the standard unit you see installed in most homes today.

For starters, the fan is usually very large as it needs to be able to turn over the volume of air in your home in a reasonable amount of time. Because of this, the fans are usually loud. Older fans can be VERY loud. This can be bothersome for some people. We see these older fans very often during our inspections around Denver.

Next, their cooling capacity is limited. Using the natural cooling methods mentioned above can only go so far. Once the ambient air temperature of the exterior air gets above a certain degree, cooling performance drops off significantly. This can go further in homes with basements but in general, whole house fans are really only useful in some climates.

Finally, they can cause a substantial amount of air leakage in the winter months. It’s nice to have a cooling system when it is hot, but how about when it is cold? Having a large hole in your ceiling during the winter months can lead to unwanted air leaks no matter how well you try to seal it.

While this seems like a large list of negatives, there are newer models of whole house fans that try to mitigate the noise and winter problems.

Newer versions of whole house fans move the fan further into the attic and have a flexible duct that runs to a vent in the ceiling. This significantly reduces the noise.

The vent piece that connects to your ceiling also has a motorized insulated damper that will close when the fan is not in use. This reduces the heat transfer in the winter. Although these systems are still not perfect, it is a great improvement from the legacy models.

When Is Installing A Whole House Fan A Good Idea?

So how do you know if a whole house fan is right for you? The ideal climate to maximize your whole house fan usage is typically areas with all four seasons and somewhat mild summers, or coastal areas where the summer heat does not reach the 90s often.

The United States is split up into climate zones by the International Energy Conservation Code. Using this code, we can determine which areas of the United States can benefit from a whole house fan.

We would suggest that a whole house fan be used in climate zones 5-7 with some exceptions. Climate zone 4 can be acceptable if you live in a more humid area or coastal area where the temperature extremes are more regulated. A whole house fan will work well in climate zone 7, but if the winters are very cold a whole house fan may do more harm than good.

Of course, this is not an exact science. If you are in doubt, asking a local professional is always recommended.

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Hopefully, this article gives you a solid understanding of whole house fans and aids you in your purchasing decision. During our home inspections, we always test and inspect a whole house fan from the interior and the attic to ensure they are in proper working order.

If you are interested in a home inspection in the Colorado Front Range area, learn more here.