As electrical panels developed and evolved over the years, sometimes certain features turned out to be not so safe. If you do have an older panel, it’s important to be aware of era-specific defects that might be present.

There have been some pretty serious factory recalls throughout the decades – such as Federal Pacific Panels, Zinsco Panels, aluminum wiring etc. But in this blog, we will be discussing a much more recent electrical issue – the Square D AFCI recall.

What’s An AFCI?

Before we get into the Square D dilemma, let’s have a quick recap about Arc Fault Circuit Interrupters. AFCIs are located on individual breakers in modern electrical panels. Their sole purpose is to shut off the electricity to the breaker when any electrical arcing is detected.

Electrical arcing can occur from a number of reasons, such as gaps in wire insulation, frayed or damaged wiring, dust accumulation, or corrosion. If there is an interruption in the normal circuit, the electrical current might try to jump a gap to another nearby conductor. As the electricity travels through the air, it creates a bright and hot stream of plasma, which can cause fires, electrocution, and even explosions.

Needless to say, we do not want arcing to occur, which is why our friend, the AFCI, is so important. And we certainly want our AFCIs to function properly!

Square D AFCI Breaker Recall

In November 2004, Schneider Electric announced a recall on all Square D AFCI breakers manufactured between March 1, 2004 and September 23, 2004. There was a microchip in the breaker that was not reliably detecting characteristics of arcing. This was a huge safety and fire hazard, so the company had to issue replacements and refunds to any customers with these units.

At the time, around 700,000 units had been sold nationwide. Many of them were replaced, but it’s highly likely that some still remain out there.

How to Identify a Defective Square D AFCI

So how can you tell whether or not you’re looking at one of the recalled units? It helps to know the year of the home and when your current electric panel was installed. Next, make sure the breakers are manufactured by Square D.

The most noticeable characteristic of a defective AFCI will be its blue test button. If it does not have a blue button, you are in the clear. However, just because it has blue button does not necessarily mean it’s a defective model. There are certain iterations of breakers with blue test buttons that are fully functional.

The next defining factor will be its catalog number, which is located on the front under the test button. According to the Schneider Electric website the following catalog numbers are recalled:

• QO115AFI, QOB115AFI, HOM115AFI
• QO120AFI, QOB120AFI, HOM120AFI
• QO115VHAFI, QOB115VHAFI
• QO120VHAFI, QOB120VHAFI

If these numbers are illegible or faded, you can also tell by looking at the date code of the breaker. Defective date codes include:

• CN, DN, EN, FN, GN, HN, and JN.

However, the one caveat is that the date codes are located on the back of the breaker. So you will need a certified electrician to remove the breaker safely and view the date code.

Say the AFCI breaker has a blue button, but you are unable to identify the catalog number or date code. In these cases, Schneider Electric recommends that you assume that it is defective and have it replaced. You will not have to pay for the part replacement, only labor.

For information about how to replace a recalled Square D AFCI breaker, VISIT THIS WEBSITE.

Need a Home Inspection?

If you are located in the Colorado Front Range, and are in need of home inspection services, try Scott Home Services! We offer an extensive list of services ranging from standard home inspections to radon testing, sewer scope inspections to mold testing. 

Feel free to visit us online to learn more, or contact us to book your services today!

In this day in age, electricity is a critical component in any household. The electrical panel essentially works as the heart of your electrical system – meant to safely and efficiently distribute electricity throughout the home.

During a standard home inspection, the electrical panel (often referred to as the “breaker box”) is a key focal point. When improperly installed or configured, the breaker box can be very dangerous. So what exactly does your inspector need to look for when inspecting electrical panels?

Inspecting Electrical Panels

Accessibility

Right off the bat, the inspector will be assessing the panel based on how easily it can be accessed. Obstructions will be called out, especially if the inspector can not physically get to the the box.

There should be at least 36 inches of clearance in front of the box, and 30-36 inches to its left and right. Additionally, nothing should be propped against it or stacked on top of it.

Panel Condition

The condition of the panel is crucial. Any significant defects could lead to serious safety hazards. We check for signs of water intrusion, rusting, corrosion, scorch marks etc.

Also how old is the panel? If the breaker box appears to be 30 years or older, we will call it out for further evaluation by an electrician.

There are also specific problematic brands to pay attention to. For instance, Federal Pacific (shown below), Zinsco, and Sylvania panels each had its own respective defects that proved to be serious fire hazards. If our inspectors detect these brands on the premise, they will call them out for immediate evaluation and replacement.

Proper Labeling

Our inspectors will make note of any breaker labels that are missing, incomplete, or faded. Proper labeling is important because it helps to ensure that the power is disabled correctly to any circuits or equipment while being serviced. Additionally, if any of the breakers trip, correct labeling will indicate the circuit or circuits that have been affected.

Correct Wiring and Breakers

This is a big one. During a standard inspection, our inspectors remove the panel cover in order to examine the wiring. All hot, neutral and grounds must be configured properly. And any signs of improper or hazardous wiring will surely be flagged.

A common defect we see is double tapping – where two or more conductors are connected to one breaker (shown below).  This is not allowed, and should be corrected for safety.  An electrician should evaluate and repair this item.

We are also on the look out to make sure that all the breakers are the same manufacturer as the panel itself.  Incompatibilities between breaker and panel manufacturer can cause electrical arcing and performance issues.

The breakers should be properly sized for their wiring circuits. When oversized, the wiring could overheat without the breaker tripping, creating a potential fire hazard.

We will also test AFCIs and GFCIs when they are present on the breakers. However, many older panels do not have ACFIs, and GFCIs are commonly found directly on outlets within the house.

Furthermore, it is crucial to be on the lookout for aluminum wiring. This material was widely used in the ’60s and ’70s as a cheap alternative to copper. But it soon became clear that this material is highly susceptible to corrosion and oxidization. Needless to say, this is a red flag for any inspector!

Amperage Rating

The inspector will be sure to look at the main service amperage rating, to make sure it is sufficient for the household. The average home should have at least 200 amps, with some smaller apartments only needing around 100 amps.

We sometimes see older homes with inadequate services amperages. While this may have been adequate when the home was built, this can prove to be an undersized electrical service for modern electrical needs. In these cases, the service conductors running to the home will likely need to be replaced, and the main panel will also need to be replaced with a higher capacity panel.

DIY or Non-Standard Installations

When inspecting electrical panels, any type of sloppy or seemingly unprofessional alterations or wiring may raise concern. Any improperly stripped or exposed wires will be noted. Also all unused knockouts should be covered to avoid pest or moisture intrusion.

Essentially anything that might seem out of the ordinary will likely be called out, just to be safe. When in doubt, call it out!

What Home Inspectors DO NOT Inspect

While our home inspectors can give you a comprehensive overview of the electrical system, they are not certified electricians, which means they do have limitations.

For instance, we do not remove breakers or wiring to inspect behind them. We don’t perform load calculations or test individual circuits.

If the home has an older breaker box, and you wish to verify code compliance, we will recommend that you consult with a specialist. And of course, we do not perform any repairs or upgrades.

Scott Home Services: Inspecting Electrical Panels and Beyond!

We hope that this article has given you a better insight into our electrical inspecting procedure. However, our standard home inspections don’t stop there – we inspect all major aspects of a residence.

For a full breakdown of our inspection process, check out this article!

If you are located in the Colorado Front Range and are in need of a home inspection, we hope that you’ll give Scott Home Services a try! We proudly offer an extensive list of home services, such as radon testing, sewer scope inspections, energy evaluations, mold testing and more!

Feel free to visit us online, or contact us to book your inspection services today!

We’ve all seen those outlets with the little “test” and “reset” buttons on the face of the outlet.  These are called “GFCI” outlets.  The “GFCI” stands for Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter.   But what does that mean? And why are these types of outlets necessary?

The Shocking Details

Perhaps at some point in your life you have experienced a mild shock from an outlet while plugging in a cord. Or at some point in your childhood, you pushed something metallic into an outlet, possibly at a devious sibling’s prompting.

When this happens, the electricity travels quickly through your body, looking for a path to ground.  You essentially become the wire that the electricity travels through.  These types of shocks can be very jarring.

Thankfully, most of the time minor shocks don’t result in injury or death.  However, there is a real possibility that a person could suffer burns, tissue injury, or even heart failure and death from electric shock on a standard 120 volt circuit.

There are various factors that can determine the outcome or severity of a shock.   These factors are:

1. The strength of the voltage
2. Your resistance as the conductor (wet skin is much less resistant than dry)
3. The path that the electricity takes through your body (through the heart is a bad path)
4. The duration of the electric shock.  If the amperage running through your body is high enough, your muscles can lose function or spasm, causing your body to freeze in place.  You may not be able to release your grasp on the item that is causing the shock.

It’s impossible to predict exactly how mild or severe an electrical shock will be, as these factors can come in a variety of combinations.  Contact with water is a key ingredient that should always be avoided, as it can cause you and your surroundings to become much more conductive.

But we can all agree that it’s best to try to avoid shock hazards entirely.

The Un-Shocking Solution

A GFCI outlet can greatly reduce this risk of life threatening electrical shock.  The GFCI outlet was designed with the sole purpose of protecting people from electrical shock.

This is completely different than the protection a breaker provides at an electrical panel: A breaker protects the structure from damage or fire.  The breaker will trip when too much current is running through a circuit, protecting the wiring from overheating.  But if you are being shocked, the breaker may not trip quickly enough to save your life, or may not trip at all.

Enter the GFCI outlet, which is essential to protect people.  The GFCI outlet measures the amperage of the current flowing to and from the outlet.  If more power is going to the hot side of the outlet than is returning back through the neutral side, it will detect that difference, and interrupt the flow of electricity almost instantaneously.

This means that if you become a conductor for electricity to travel through your body, the outlet detects that less current is returning on the neutral side (because it is going through you), and it will shut off the power through the outlet within a fraction of a second.  This could very well save your life.  As explained earlier, when water is part of the equation, you can become a much better conductor, and the risk increases.

This is why GFCI outlets have long been required on outlets or circuits that might be used near running or standing water, such as outdoors, at kitchens, bathrooms, garages, laundry rooms, etc.

Starting in 1968, the National Electrical Code (NEC) began mandating the use of GFCI Outlets in certain circumstances and areas.

The required locations for these outlets have gradually increased over the years, and typically have only applied to new construction, major renovations and rental properties.

For more information, read the GFCI Fact Sheet from the Consumer Products Safety Commission.

GFCI Outlets vs. GFCI Breakers

You will typically see these GFCIs configured on the individual outlet itself (like the one shown above). However, GFCIs will also sometimes be installed at the main electrical panel. The two configurations differ in that a GFCI breaker will protect all outlets on its circuit, while an outlet GFCI only protects the individual outlet, or any subsequent outlets down-line.

GFCI breakers can be especially efficient when there are multiple outlets on a circuit that need GFCI protection. However, this option is generally more expensive for parts and installation labor, compared to GFCI outlets.

GFCI Outlets vs. AFCI Outlets

Take note that GFCIs are not to be confused with AFCIs. AFCIs, or Arc Fault Circuit Interrupters, work in conjunction with GFCIs. However, they are designed to prevent unintentional arcing from occurring at an outlet or electric panel. Arcing can be very dangerous and has been known to cause electrical fires. So AFCIs are certainly a must in any electrical system.

Both AFCIs and GFCIs can be installed on the same circuits and work great at preventing electrical mishaps!

For more information about AFCIs, check out our blog, AFCI Outlets and Breakers Explained. 

Inspecting GFCI Outlets

During a home inspections or rental inspections, there is almost inevitably a conversation about GFCI outlets.  Our inspectors will note the presence or absence of GFCI outlets or breakers in the required locations.  We will alert you to these locations, so that you know where they are in case they were to trip. And we will test them when possible to verify that they are working properly.

There are many cases where we find that the GFCIs are not working properly, and would not actually provide any form of shock protection.  GFCI components can wear out over time.

Or they can be wired incorrectly in a manner in which the outlet works, but does not actually trip and shut off power. These are safety hazards that our inspectors will seek to bring to your attention.

On older homes, GFCIs may not be present, as they may not have been required by code at the time that the house was built.  If they aren’t present in your home, you ought to consider installing them. In the case of rental properties, most codes will actually require them in certain areas (i.e. kitchens, bathrooms etc.), regardless of the home’s age.

GFCI outlets are relatively inexpensive, and a standard outlet can easily be swapped with a GFCI with minimal difficulty.  One GFCI outlet on the circuit can protect multiple outlets down-line, so you can often install just one on each required circuit, and the other outlets down-line on this circuit will be protected. GFCI breakers can also provide protection on an entire circuit, as mentioned above.

Test your GFCIs Periodically

Because the internal components can wear out over time, you should also test these yourself on a regular basis.  This can be done by plugging in a simple appliance such as a lamp, and pressing the “test” button. GFCI breakers also have the same “test” function built in.

The outlet should make an audible click or pop, and the power to the lamp should shut off.  When the “reset” button is pressed again, the lamp should turn back on, as power is restored to the outlet.

If the outlet does not trip, or if it sounds as if it trips but the power remains on, or if it will not reset after tripping, the outlet is faulty or incorrectly wired. An electrician should investigate and repair or replace the GFCI as needed.

There is also a new product on the market that notifies you when a GFCI outlet is tripped. This can be useful if important items are plugged into GFCI outlets. Learn more about these here.

The ASHI- certified Inspectors at Scott Home Services take safety concerns seriously – you should too.  Review where GFCI outlets need to be installed in your home and work with an electrician or qualified person to help update those outlets – your life may depend on it!

For more information on what is included in an our Home Inspections, visit our Inspection Services page.

Electricity is an essential part to modern living. Thankfully, in this day and age, most people have easy access to a source of electricity. All we have to do is pay our monthly bill to the local utility company. And voila – we have instant access to electricity at our finger tips! But have you ever wondered how electricity actually makes it into your home from your utility company? It wouldn’t be possible without the help of service entrance conductors.

What Are Service Entrance Conductors?

A service entrance conductor, or SEC, is the point at which the electrical line from the utility company meets the service line at a residence. Electrical power is channeled off of the primary power line toward a building via a “service drop” or “service lateral.”  The service drop or lateral is then spliced to the SEC, which subsequently runs to the meter and main electrical panel.

The SEC is responsible for ensuring that electricity runs into the home safely and efficiently. When properly installed, these conductors are designed to channel the necessary electrical load the building needs, preventing any potential overloads or outages.

Types of SECs

There are two primary types of SECs – Overhead (or aerial) SECs and Underground (or buried) SECs.

Overhead service entrance conductors will primarily be found in urban areas where many overhead power lines are present. They are also more common with older homes and older neighborhoods where the lines weren’t buried originally. Overhead service entrances are the more visibly accessible of the two, which means that more aspects can be evaluated by home inspectors.

On the other hand, buried lines are more commonly found in rural locations. They are also typically preferred in the modern setting, as overhead power lines can often be more unsightly. Contrary to overhead lines, underground SECs are primarily hidden, which results in a more limited inspection.

Inspecting Service Entrance Conductors

Electricity can be extremely dangerous when improperly configured. That is why our inspectors perform a general evaluation of all accessible electrical components of the home. When examining the SEC there several aspects our inspectors will evaluate:

1. Height – When it comes to overhead service entrance conductors, the service drop clearance must be at least 12 feet above the driveway of a home; and at least 10 feet above the walkways of the home. If the inspectors note that the wiring is any lower than the required height, they will call it out for repair.
2. Wall Anchor Condition  – The inspector will make sure to take a look at where the SEC is anchored to the wall. Is it properly secured? Is it in good condition? Any signs of a loose or damaged wall anchor will be noted.
3. Wiring Condition – The wires themselves must also be free of any visible damage or fraying. They must also be properly attached to the house when entering from overhead. A guy wire is required to secure the wiring to the home in order to prevent the power line from detaching from the SEC. The photo below shows an example of a guy wire that is not connected to the service mast. This must be evaluated and corrected. 
4. Proximity of Trees – Any tree branches or vegetation in contact can eventually cause fraying and/or damage to the wiring. That is why your inspector will recommend clearing out any trees or plants near the SEC.
5. Service Size – Inspectors will also be paying attention to the amperage that is entering the home. The typical modern house needs at least 100 amps. However, some older homes may still be receiving a lower amount of amperage. An inspector can usually tell how much the home is receiving by looking at the main breaker. If more power is needed for the homeowner’s energy demands, the homeowner should consult a qualified electrician about updating the SEC and main panel.
6. Service Mast Condition – The service mast (shown below by the green arrow) is the conduit responsible for guiding the electrical wiring from overhead to the meter. It is meant to protect a very high voltage current, so it is obviously important that this device is not bent, warped or damaged.
   

   Image sourced from https://www.familyhandyman.com

7. Drip Loop – The drip loop (shown in the picture above by the blue arrow) is a crucial part of the SEC configuration. It is a loop, or dip, in the service line right before it enters the head of the service mast. This is meant to ensure that any moisture collecting on the line will not enter the service mast.
8. Meter – As the service line makes its way to the main panel, it will pass through the meter. Our inspectors check to make sure the meter is properly secured and in good condition.
9. Service Lateral Riser – When it comes to buried service lines, inspectors are unable to evaluate most of the line. However, they are able to look at the point where it comes up from the ground through the service lateral riser and into the meter. They will make sure there is no visible damage to the wiring and that all conduit is properly fitted with no gaps.
10. Conduit – Whether the line is running from the underground or from the roof, all wiring needs to be completely encased by conduit. Any openings or damaged areas must be repaired by an electrical specialist.
11. Grounding Rods – Inspectors will also take a look at the ground rods to make sure they are connected to the main panel and properly buried. Grounding rods ( shown below) are a crucial aspect of the residential electrical system, because they help to channel surplus surges of electrical current away from the home and into to the earth. 

Scott Home Services

Scott Home Services has been providing the Colorado Front Range with home inspection services for over 18 years. When inspecting your home, we provide you with a professional and comprehensive evaluation of the entire home (including its electrical components).

Click Here to learn more about everything included in our standard inspection.

It is our goal to help Colorado Families live in safe, healthy, and comfortable homes. We also strive to educate and inform with our series of blogs, like this one. If you have any home-related questions, feel free to reach out to us through our Ask Your Inspector program!

If you are in need any home inspection services, we would appreciate it if you considered Scott Home Services! Visit us online for more information, or contact us to book your home inspection today!

The main electrical panel is one of the most important aspects of any home. It is responsible for gathering electricity from the local provider, and distributing it safely to the active circuits throughout the house. Each panel is designed with a maximum limit of breakers or branch circuits that can be added. When performing a home inspection, we note when panels are completely full of breakers and they are “At Capacity.” So what happens when the panel reaches its capacity?

What Happens When My Electrical Panel Is At Full Capacity?

When a panel is at full capacity, there simply aren’t any more slots left in the panel to add any more circuits. The more appliances and devices that are in use in the house, the more power is being drawn from the panel, and the more circuits are needed. Most modern residential panels are designed to draw 100 – 200 amps of electricity. This is quite a bit of power and lots of branch circuits can be connected. However, if the main panel is out of slots, nothing can be added in the future and it also indicates that you may be drawing a lot of power off of your panel.

During our standard home inspections, we always take a good look at the electrical panel. We will be sure to note if all breaker slots are being used (as show in the picture below). When all breakers are occupied, we will note in the report that the panel is at capacity.

But just because all circuits are occupied, that does not necessarily mean that the panel is being overloaded. This is because, generally, not all circuits are being used to their fullest potential. You might have one circuit that is only servicing one low wattage lightbulb, and another that services several unused outlets. Overloading your panel is a problem and can cause your main breaker to trip. However, there is no good way to test for this during a home inspection.

So it is usually not a big problem if we do identify a panel at full capacity. Well, not unless you are looking to add additional circuits. Or if the electrical panel is showing symptoms of an overload.

What Are the Solutions to an At Capacity Panel?

Say your electrical panel is at full capacity – all available circuits are occupied. What happens if you want more circuits? There are two main options.

• Add a Sub-Panel – A sub-panel, also known as a satellite circuit breaker panel, is a smaller electrical panel that is branched off of the main panel and draws power from it. By installing a sub-panel, you can add an additional grouping of circuits to the household. Sub-panels are commonly used in homes with auxiliary features, such as a finished basement, carriage house, detached garage, or a pool.

• Replace the Main Panel – If installing a sub panel won’t provide you with enough additional power, an alternate option would be to replace the original panel with an upgraded one that has the capacity to pull more amperage. This is especially common with older homes. If you have a home from the 1960s or earlier with an original electrical panel, it is more than likely pulling in less than 100 amps. That amount of power may not suffice for today’s domestic energy demands. Keep in mind that, whenever upgrading a main panel, you must be sure that your main power supply can support it.

What are the Issues of an Overdrawn Electrical Panel?

As we have discussed, a panel at capacity does not necessarily mean there are going to be issues. However, there are cases when the household is in fact drawing more energy than the main panel can provide. When the sum of all power drawn exceeds the main breaker amperage, problems can arise.

1. Breakers Tripping –  One of the main signs of an overdrawn panel will be that your breakers will start to trip frequently. It’s common for breakers to trip from time to time, perhaps from a power surge caused by a storm. But if your panel is tripping over and over – that is not normal. You are likely overdrawing power, and should contact an electrician for further evaluation.
2. Electrical Issues – You may also be experiencing strange electrical issues such as flickering lights, light bulb failure, or even inconsistent power delivery to certain appliances.
3. Heat-Related Symptoms – In extreme cases, the circuits on a overdrawn panel can start to overheat. This could eventually lead to burnt or melted wiring/breakers. Damaged electrical components can lead to arcing and even fires. So if you notice the smell of burnt plastic or can see any signs of heat-related damage, call a professional immediately.

Inspecting Electrical Panels

Here at Scott Home Inspection, a division of Scott Home Services, we recognize the importance of a properly functioning electrical system. That is why we include a comprehensive examination of all the electrical components of the house – including all outlets, lights, smoke/CO detectors, and of course the electrical panel. We always remove the cover plate to make sure there are no signs of defects or damage, and ensure there are no signs of improper wiring.

Keep in mind that, although all of our inspectors are ASHI or InterNACHI- certified, and very knowledgeable about electrical systems, they are not electricians. So if there are any red flags, we will recommend that you hire a certified electrical professional for further evaluation and/or repair.

If you’d like to view a sample report from one of our standard inspections, click here.

Helping Colorado families live in safe, healthy and comfortable homes is our passion. So if you need any home inspection services, we are here to help! For more info about our company, visit us online, or book your inspection services today!

Electricity is one of the most important components in our homes. However, it can also be one of the most dangerous. A flawed electrical system can be the source of power outages, property damage, bodily injury, and even house fires. Thankfully, through modern technology, we are able to implement safeguards into our electrical systems in order to prevent these types of accidents. One example of these safety devices is the AFCI. This device is instrumental in preventing safety hazards caused by arc faults.

Arc Fault Circuit Interrupters are a crucial aspect of any residential building, but unlike their counterpart, GFCIs, AFCIs are less talked about and more misunderstood. So let’s dive into the world of AFCIs.

What is an Electrical Arc?

In order to explain an AFCI, we must first discuss what an electrical arc is. An electrical arc is a discharge of electric current across a gap in a circuit. Because the air is a poor conductor, the current is able to make its way across the gap by generating an ionized column of gas called a plasma. The plasma creates a bright light and extremely high levels of heat. Arcing is often utilized in a controlled manner for things such as welding, plasma cutting, and lighting.

But when arcing occurs unintentionally, it can be very dangerous. They have been known to cause fires, electrocution, and even explosions. Damaged, frayed or kinked wires, gaps in wire insulation, improperly wired panels, accumulated dust or corrosion can all cause arc faults.

Electricity will often try to find the path of least resistance. So if anything is interrupting its intended path (through electrical wiring or connection), it can jump to another conducting material, such as a metal component in an electrical panel. Even if the arc fault is occurring along the current’s intended wiring, the heat that it generates can break down the wire insulation and cause an electrical fire. These fires can then grow and spread to other flammable components of the house. In some cases, these fires will occur behind walls or other hidden areas, causing the fire to intensify significantly before even being detected.

What is an AFCI?

So while they happen infrequently, arc faults are definitely something we need to avoid – especially in the residential setting. So how do we do that? In comes the AFCI, or Arc Fault Circuit Interrupter.

The Arc Fault Circuit Interrupter’s name pretty much sums it up. The device uses specialized technology that will allow it to detect any abnormal arc occurring along the circuit. When it does, it will interrupt the circuit so that no current can be transmitted through it. By promptly interrupting the circuit upon detecting abnormal arcing, AFCIs can prevent the arc from escalating into a fire. This proactive approach significantly reduces the risk of fire-related incidents.

This is such a crucial aspect of the home that the current National Electrical Code (NEC) now requires that an AFCI be installed on each circuit of the home. On occasion, these devices will be installed at electrical receptacles, but they are more commonly installed at the circuit breaker.

AFCI vs GFCI

Do not get the AFCI confused with its close relative, the Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI). Both devices are designed to “break” the circuit, but they are triggered by different conditions. As its name suggests, a GFCI will trip the moment it detects a ground fault.

A ground fault occurs when electricity flows to an unintended, grounded conductor, such as a water source or a human body. This is a serious shock risk near water sources, which is why GFCIs are required in all bathrooms and kitchens.

GFCIs are most commonly installed at the outlet receptacle (as shown above). But they can also be installed at the circuit breaker on individual circuits. In those cases, all the outlets on the circuit will have GFCI protection.  On the contrary, AFCIs are almost exclusively installed at the circuit breaker.

Both AFCIs and GFCIs can be installed on the same circuits together. They work as a team to provide the maximum protection that a circuit can have.

Inspecting for AFCIs

Electrical is one of the primary components we inspect when conducting our standard inspections. This is generally one of the main safety concerns for most of our clients. We conduct a very thorough inspection, examining the main panel, testing outlets, fixtures, light switches, and even smoke/CO detectors.

We know the important role the AFCIs play in the home – not to mention they are a code requirement. So our inspectors always make sure to inspect for them. We will test them when possible, but we often can’t when the home is occupied with outlets in use. If there are any missing or defective AFCIs, we will be sure to recommend immediate evaluation and repair.

If you are based in Colorado and in need of inspection services, Scott Home Inspection would love to be of service! With over 18 years of home inspection experience in the CO Front Range, we ensure that you will find the highest quality service in the industry from our inspectors and office staff.

To learn more about us, visit us online or contact us today.

During the course of our 16+ years performing home inspections, with a team of home inspectors in Colorado, we have seen a wide range of electrical issues.  And while we have written a lot of articles on specific issues, we wanted to compile the top electrical issues found at home inspections into one place.

GFCI Outlets Missing or Defective:

This is probably the top electrical issue we find at home inspections.  Because the requirements to have GFCI outlets present has evolved in the building code over the years, and has been adopted at different times by each municipality in the state, we end up seeing quite a variety of what is present, particularly in older homes.  Today’s building codes require GFCI outlets to be installed in all wet locations.

This includes in kitchens, bathrooms, garages, basement areas, and on exterior outlets.  In some older homes, we may only see GFCI outlets present in bathrooms only and not in the kitchen.  Or we may see a single GFCI outlet, for example, in the basement or garage that is then wired to other bathroom or kitchen outlets.  This represents the evolution of the code and the changes made to requirements for GFCIs over the years.

We occasionally will see outlets in the panel that are Ground-Fault outlets that trip within the panel and remove all power to the circuit when a ground fault condition occurs.

Most home inspectors will also test GFCI outlets.  Testing can be done via one of two methods.  The first is to press the reset button on the outlet to ensure that it responds and trips.  The second method is to use a hand-held test device.

These units plug into the outlet and have a test button on them that simulates a ground fault condition.  The outlet should then trip and reset.  On occasion the outlet will not trip or will not reset once tripped, indicating an aged or defective GFCI outlet.  We have written a good summary explaining how GFCI outlets work that goes into more detail.

Ungrounded Outlets:

On many older homes from the 1950s and older, we often come across ungrounded outlets.  Many are still older 2-prong outlets that clearly are not grounded.  But at times the outlets themselves have been updated and are 3-prong style outlets, but are not grounded.

Home inspectors will use a hand-held test device that plugs into the outlet to check for grounding and polarity.  If we come across ungrounded outlets, we note this for reference and recommend that you consider upgrading the outlets for safety protection.  There are a couple ways to do upgrades.  We have a great summary about dealing with ungrounded outlets that is really helpful.

Reverse Polarity Outlets:

This is another safety related concern to be aware of.  If an electrical outlet is wired in reverse, this represents a possible safety hazard to both the person plugging in a device and to the device itself.  We see this frequently on new construction homes where outlets accidentally get mis-wired. The repair of this concern is straightforward for a qualified electrician and involves re-wiring the outlet properly.  This defect was highlighted in an article we wrote about common new construction home defects.

Electrical Panel Age Concerns:

While most of the older home electrical panels have been upgraded or replaced by now, we occasionally run across an older, outdated panel.  Just like most all things in life, electrical panels have evolved and improved over time.  Experience has shown us that some older panels have known concerns that have developed and need to be addressed.  Some are related to the manufacturer of the panel with specific known concerns.

Other issues simply relate to the age, size and performance of the panel.  And example is the Federal Pacific electric panel which was installed in the 1960s and 1970s.  These panels have known concerns with the breakers, outlined in our article about Federal Pacific panels.  Most commonly seen are older, smaller panels that just do not have the capacity to handle the amount of electrical needs of homes today.

Smaller, older panels may have worked well when the home was built, but if the addition of air conditioning, car charging stations, larger capacity appliances, etc. are needed, these panels may be full or simply cannot accommodate the heavier demands.  Upgrading the panel and possibly the incoming electrical service may need to be considered.

Smoke Detector or Carbon Monoxide Detector Concerns:

This is another issue that has evolved over time in the building codes and is one of the top electrical issues found at home inspections.  We see quite a variety of installed configurations with both smoke and CO detectors.  For today’s building code, it is required that there be smoke detectors present in every bedroom and in the common area of each floor of the home, and that all units be hard-wired to an electrical connection with a battery backup.

And in Colorado, there are requirements for CO detectors to be present within 15 ft of the entry to all bedrooms.  But on older homes the units present are usually battery operated only and not hard wired.  And since it is impractical to add wiring to smoke detectors after the fact, we usually are looking to ensure there are at least units within each bedroom for safety.

CO detectors can either be hard-wired, plugged into an outlet or battery operated.  Another concern is the age of the units.  The standard recommendation is that units older than 10 years should be replaced due to aging internal sensors.  Home inspectors will check for all of these items – location, quantity of units, age, and performance.

Home inspectors generally follow a prescribed set of standards when checking electrical concerns in a home.  At Scott Home Inspection, our inspectors follow the ASHI Standards of Practice and the electrical inspection requirements.  The safety of the occupants of a home is one of the top concerns of a home inspector.  Addressing electrical concerns discovered during a home inspection can be done by any licensed electrician.  For more information on the inspection services provided by Scott Home Inspection, visit our Inspection Services page.

Have you lost power in not one, but all of your bathrooms? Or maybe you have lost power in the outlets but the lights and fans still work? Or possibly, just the outlets and the lights above the vanity?

This odd occurrence is easily explained but can be concerning if you don’t understand the electrical workings of a modern home.

Luckily, there is usually a simple fix for this. But first, let’s talk about how bathrooms are wired according to today’s building code.

Electrical Requirements for Bathrooms

The International Code Council has very specific requirements for how bathrooms are wired in homes. We are not electricians and won’t get into specific code language, but one requirement is that all bathroom outlets be wired on a 20A circuit.

In even newer code versions, the lights and the bathroom outlets have to be on separate circuits.

Because 20A is a larger amount of power, it can power multiple bathrooms with no issues. So, to save space in the panel and not have multiple unique 20A circuits for each bathroom, you often see all bathrooms tied together on one 20A breaker. While this is not required, it is a practice that has gone back for multiple decades now.

Another requirement is that all bathrooms have GFCI protection. If you are not familiar with what GFCI outlets or breakers are, read our article about this topic here.

On a circuit, you only need one GFCI outlet, or a GFCI breaker to protect the entire chain of outlets. This is convenient from an electrician’s perspective but can be confusing to homeowners.

Knowing this information, let’s go through the steps to restoring power in your bathrooms.

Step 1: Check the GFCI

One of the bathrooms likely hosts a GFCI outlet. This is the outlet with 2 small buttons between the plugs. Reset and Test.

The most common reason for losing power in the bathrooms is a trip of this GFCI outlet. However, as we stated above, only 1 is needed on the circuit so the bathroom you were in when you lost power might not be the bathroom where the GFCI outlet is located.

Most electricians will install the GFCI outlet in the master bathroom. This is a logical place to put it but is also not a hard set rule. Check each bathroom for a GFCI outlet and ensure that it is reset.

When looking, there will likely be an orange light glowing in one of the corners indicating it has been tripped. Reset the outlet and the problem should be fixed! Nice work.

During our home inspections and rental inspections we test all GFCI’s we come across. If we find this specific bathroom GFCI that controls multiple bathrooms, we notate that in our reports as well.

Couple tips:

• Just because you found one GFCI that isn’t tripped, doesn’t mean this is not the issue. Ensure that you check every bathroom outlet as only the first GFCI in the chain will trip. Many homeowners and DIYers assume that every outlet around water needs to be a GFCI outlet. This is not the case and only the GFCI outlet closest to the breaker will actually trip if there is an issue.
• Check inside cabinets. We have seen some pretty interesting locations for these outlets. Look everywhere you can think of.
• On rare occasions, we have seen the bathrooms share a circuit with a GFCI outlet in the garage. If you can’t find anything in the bathrooms, consider checking inside the garage.
• GFCI outlets are prone to failure. We have run into many outlets that will not reset after they have tripped and need to be replaced. If the outlet is clearly tripped, but the reset button does not snap into place when you push it, then the outlet may need a full replacement.

Step 2: Check the Panel

This could arguably be step 1 as well. If the electrical issue that occurred wasn’t a ground fault, then the breaker itself may have tripped.

Take a look at the 20 amp breaker for the bathrooms. Hopefully your panel is labeled, but there is a good chance it isn’t. If there are no labels, you will need to look for a tripped breaker.

If you haven’t seen a tripped breaker before, it will appear as though the switch itself is halfway switched between on and off. If the panel is older it may appear all the way off. If a tripped breaker is found, you first need to flip the switch into the off position, then turn the breaker back on. If this solves your issue, then you are done!

There is a chance on newer homes that the breaker itself is a GFCI breaker and there are no GFCI outlets within the house. If this is the case, the 20A breaker that powers the bathrooms will have a small button next to the switch. This is a test button, the same as the test button on the outlets. If the power is lost due to a ground fault, the breaker will trip just as described above. Follow the same steps, and power should be restored.

During our inspections, we evaluate the panel and if GFCI breakers are present, we note them in our report for this very reason.

Step 3: Call an Electrician

If power is on at the panel, and you have looked at every outlet you can think of for a GFCI reset, then it may be time to call an electrician. There could be something bigger happening. When dealing with GFCI protection, correct wiring is very important and polarity issues or connection issues can cause power failures on these circuits.

At this point, you will need to have a professional electrician evaluate your system and make the necessary repairs to restore power. Hopefully it doesn’t come to this, but if it does you will at least know it wasn’t something as simple as a tripped GFCI.

If you own a home built in the late ’60s to early ’70s or are planning on purchasing a home in this age range, it is quite possible that the home was built with aluminum wiring.

According to the US Consumer Product Safety Commission, homes with aluminum wiring are 55 times more likely to have electrical wire connections reach dangerous “fire hazard conditions” than homes wired with copper wiring.

So, this begs the question: Why do homes built during this time period have aluminum wiring? And more importantly, why is aluminum wiring an issue in homes?

Why do homes have aluminum wiring installed?

In the late ’60s and early ’70s, the United States was in the middle of the Vietnam War and we had a shortage of copper. This forced the price of copper up as the military demand was high and our mostly imported supply at this time was low.

Because of the shortage, another metal was chosen with which to wire homes, and aluminum seemed to be a good choice.

Aluminum wiring was less expensive and easy to come by. It is also easier to work with than copper which made it seem like a good alternative.

What Changed? Why is Aluminum wiring a problem in homes?

Different metals will react differently when an electric charge, or current, is passed through them. Aluminum expands and contracts more readily than copper does.

Also, aluminum is more brittle than copper, so, it is not as flexible and will break easier if twisted or stretched. Because aluminum expands much more when heated than copper does, excess heat expansion can force the wire out from under terminal screws, loosening its connection to the attached device, outlet, switches, circuit breakers, and junction boxes.

This exposed wiring can develop oxidation and corrosion when the metal is exposed to the air. If the aluminum wire connections become loose, this can disrupt the electrical flow to these connection points.

If more electrical resistance exists inside the wire, it will generate unwanted heat on the wiring. That additional heat will cause the wire to expand, and the more the wire expands, the looser the wiring connections can become overtime at the connection points throughout the home.

Just because there isn’t a problem in the home now, doesn’t mean there may not be a problem in the future. This is a problem that can slowly get worse over time as the wires get progressively looser at their end connection points.

How do I fix aluminum electrical wiring?

Completely rewiring a home isn’t really a practical solution, as it would require tearing into walls and ceilings, and it is extremely expensive. Fortunately, this is typically not necessary.  The primary repair method is to address the end point connections to re-secure them.

The most common repair for this is called pig tailing, and it is a relatively simple repair. However, it can be time-consuming with high labor charges.

At each connection point throughout the home, the aluminum wire is disconnected from ALL of the devices (the circuit breakers, outlets, wall switches, and junction boxes).

The end of the aluminum wiring is then connected to a small piece of copper wire by using an encapsulated wire-nut filled with an antioxidant compound.

The new piece of copper wire is connected to the existing connect point (the circuit breakers, outlets, wall switches, and junction boxes) creating a safe connection with the device.

There are several companies that manufacture specific wire nuts (usually purple in color). This makes them fairly easy to find during a home inspection or rental inspection.

Depending on how much aluminum wiring and how many connection points there are in the home, this can range from a couple of dozen to several hundred splices. While the wire nut device is inexpensive, the cost to repair can add up as the electrician’s time increases.

However, the cost is negligible as this is a potentially hazardous and, in some cases, life-threatening issue.

Whether it turns out to be a smaller job or a bigger job, it is, of course, a good idea to get several estimates from qualified, licensed, electricians who are familiar with the pig tailing process, so that you can make an informed decision going forward.

How we find aluminum during a home inspection.

When we perform a home inspection, the electrical panel cover is removed. Typically, aluminum wiring will be visible in the panel, and you can view the wire material at the breakers and the neutral bar.

Since the wiring was installed during a specific time frame, we are more proactive in looking for the wiring in specific age homes.

If proper repairs were made, you will see special breakers or pigtails within the panel itself.

When we do encounter aluminum wiring, we typically will remove a few sample outlet covers to verify that pig tailing has been installed behind the outlets as well.

While a standard home inspection does not allow the time to view every outlet and connection in a home, it gives you, as the buyer, the information needed to request further information from the seller.

We recommend asking about repairs and finding out if they were done professionally and having an electrician review the repairs as needed.

Aluminum Wiring Today.

While problems were found with aluminum wiring on 15 and 20 amp circuits, proper use cases were also found. Aluminum wiring is still installed today in certain applications.

For example, stranded aluminum wiring was found to be safe, and it is used on larger power connections such as 220v breakers, AFCI and GFCI jumper cables, and even your large main electrical overhead lines!

We are constantly learning how to safely use building materials, and aluminum will find its place in the electrical world over time.