It’s a situation every homeowner faces eventually: the day your old water heater calls it quits. Whether you’re standing in a puddle or planning ahead before that happens, understanding your water heater replacement options can save you time, money, and stress.

For Colorado homebuyers, choosing the right system can make a big difference in comfort and energy costs. Here’s a simple breakdown of what to know before replacing your water heater and how to find the right fit for your home.

The Two Main Choices: Tank vs. Tankless

When it’s time for water heater replacement, most people start with the classic question: Do I stick with a tank or upgrade to tankless?

Tank water heaters are the traditional choice — large, insulated cylinders that store and heat water all day long. They’re familiar, relatively affordable to install, and straightforward to replace if your existing setup already uses one. But they also have downsides: tanks continuously use energy to keep water hot, even when you’re not using it. Over time, that “standby loss” can add up on your utility bills.

Tankless water heaters, on the other hand, heat water only when you need it. Instead of storing hot water, they activate when you turn on a faucet or shower, running cold water over a heat exchanger. That “on-demand” system is why they’re sometimes called instant water heaters.

Because they only heat water as needed, tankless systems tend to be more energy efficient. That’s a major plus for Colorado homeowners looking to lower monthly costs. They’re also compact, mounting neatly on a wall instead of taking up floor space.

However, tankless units come with higher upfront costs, and installation can be more complex. Homes converting from a tank system may need new venting or larger gas lines. And while they’re great for smaller households, larger families might notice a drop in water temperature if multiple showers, laundry, and the dishwasher run at once.

Exploring High-Efficiency Water Heaters

If you’re set on keeping a tank but want better performance, high-efficiency water heaters are worth a look. These models use advanced combustion and heat recovery technology to make the most of the energy they consume.

A standard gas water heater might operate at around 80% efficiency, while a high-efficiency model can reach 90% or more. That means less heat escapes through the vent and more goes into your water, translating to faster heating and lower energy waste.

The trade-off? Cost and complexity. HE units are more expensive to install and often require professional setup to ensure proper venting. But for long-term homeowners or energy-conscious buyers, the investment can pay off in reduced utility bills over time.

Considering Solar Water Heating Systems

For the environmentally minded, solar water heating systems are another replacement option. These setups use rooftop solar panels and a circulation system to preheat water before it enters your tank or tankless unit.

In sunny states like Colorado, this can offset a significant portion of your water heating costs. Many homeowners use solar as a supplement, letting the sun do most of the work while a conventional or tankless unit provides backup heating on cloudy days.

The main limitation is predictability: no sunlight means no solar gain. Installation also tends to cost more upfront, though some homeowners offset that with energy rebates or tax credits.

How Long Water Heaters Last

Another factor for buyers to keep in mind is lifespan. A standard tank water heater usually lasts 8–12 years, while tankless systems can run 15–20 years with proper maintenance. High-efficiency and solar systems vary based on usage and upkeep.

If you’re buying an older home, ask when the water heater was last replaced and look for signs of age such as rust and slow heating times. Replacing an outdated unit before it fails can prevent water damage and make your home more energy efficient.

Choosing the Right System for Your Home

There’s no single “best” water heater for every buyer. The right choice depends on your household size, water usage habits, and budget.

• Go with a tank if you want a lower upfront cost and straightforward installation.

• Consider tankless if you prioritize energy efficiency, space savings, and long-term value.

• Look into high-efficiency if you plan to stay in your home and want lower utility bills.

• Explore solar if sustainability and long-term savings are important to you.

Whatever route you take, the key is to understand your water heater replacement options early before an emergency forces a quick decision.

The Bottom Line on Water Heater Replacement

A water heater might not be the most exciting part of your new home, but it’s one of the most important for daily comfort. By learning the basics of tank, tankless, high-efficiency, and solar systems, homebuyers can make confident, informed choices that balance cost, efficiency, and convenience.

When you know your options, you can turn what feels like a stressful replacement into a smart investment and start your new home journey with hot water ready when you need it.

Let’s face it – we need our water heaters. Whether it’s for those nice warm showers or sparkling clean dishes, most of us have our water heater working double time on a daily basis. It follows then that regular maintenance is essential for keeping your water heater running efficiently, preventing costly breakdowns, extending its lifespan, and ensuring a consistent supply of hot water. While you can certainly hire a professional to carry out periodic water heater maintenance procedures, it’s actually a very manageable process to do on your own.

Of course, both tank and tankless water heaters benefit from proactive maintenance. But due to their contrasting designs and components, their maintenance routines do differ in certain ways. Let’s discuss!

Tank Water Heaters

These are the most common type of water heater. They can either be gas powered or electric, and (as their name implies) store a large amount of water in a tank. After continual use overtime, sediment can begin to settle at the bottom of the tank causing decreased efficiency and higher energy bills. And corrosive elements in the water can attack the metal components within the tank leading to potential leaks and damage. That is why giving your heater a little TLC seasonally is so important.

Tankless Water Heaters

Contrary to tank-style, these devices heat water “on demand.” When hot water is needed, water is channeled through the heater, it is heated to a designated temperature, then off it goes to your desired location (check out the diagram below). You don’t have to worry about sediment buildup in a water tank (because there is no tank), but you do have to worry about potential mineral buildup throughout the piping and heating chamber.

Standard Water Heater Maintenance

Although tank and tankless heaters have their distinct differences, some fundamental maintenance steps apply to both:

Visual Inspection – Let’s start with the easy (and somewhat obvious) items. It’s advisable to simply check in on your water heater on a regular basis. This means giving it a visual inspection to ensure that there are no defects or leaks. If you have an older gas water heater, you can check to make sure that pilot light is ignited and burning steadily. However, most newer water heaters no longer have standing pilot lights, instead using an electronic igniter.

Be sure to look at the the combustion air intake and flue to make sure there is no damage or obstructions. Also pay attention for any strange noises or odors. And don’t forget to keep your heater and the area around it clean!

Test The Temperature – Take a look at the temperature on your water heater’s thermostat. Then, using a water or kitchen thermometer, test the max temperature coming out of your faucet. Make sure it correlates with the thermostat setting. *Note that the normally acceptable temperature range is 115ºF to 130ºF. Temperatures over 130ºF can present a scalding hazard. This picture below shows a water temp that is way too hot!

Check the TPR Valve – The Temperature Pressure Release (TPR) Valve is designed to release water if the temperature or pressure in a water tank exceeds safe levels. Without a pressure release function, the pressure can buildup inside the appliance and lead to damage, and in worst cases, a water heater explosion. So needless to say, you definitely want this thing working properly! This mechanism should be tested annually.

To test it, place a bucket under the discharge pipe and lift the valve’s tab to release some water. If water flows freely and stops when you release the tab, the valve is working correctly. If you lift the tab and no water comes out or it continues to run once closed, the valve needs to be replaced.

Now that we’ve established the related maintenance items between the two heater types, let’s examine the differences.

Before we move on, please note that in the following sections, we touch on some more advanced maintenance. These steps can normally be performed by a qualified plumbing specialist. However, if you are comfortable with more advanced DIY maintenance tasks, you may consider doing these steps on your own!

Advanced Tank Water Heater Maintenance

As we discussed above, the main defining factor of the tank-style heater is that it stores large amounts of water, and its maintenance focuses on managing sediment buildup and protecting the tank from corrosion. So how do we do that?

Anode Rod Inspection and Replacement – The sacrificial anode rod (usually made of zinc) is crucial for preventing the tank’s metal parts from corroding due to water acidity, alkalinity and bacteria. The rod attracts corrosive elements, which causes it to deteriorate, instead of the tank itself. This rod should be removed and inspected annually. Before removing it, you should first shut off the power or gas. You should also shut off the supply lines leading to and going from your water heater. 

If the rod is less than a half inch thick or has excessive mineral buildup, it should be replaced. When re-inserting the rod into the water heater, make sure to apply pipe joint compound or wrap plumber’s tape around the threads to ensure a secure seal.

Flushing the Tank and Removing Sediment – It is recommended to flush your water heater once a year, in order to mitigate the excessive buildup of sediment. Again, don’t forget to shut off the power supply or gas, and cut the water supply. In order to drain the tank, you must connect a hose to the drain valve at the bottom of the tank.

You can drain the water into a bucket or a nearby floor drain, if available. Once empty, close the drain valve, add a gallon of vinegar, and let it sit for several hours. Afterward, fill the tank back up with water, and subsequently drain the water/vinegar mixture out of the tank.

Finally, once the tank is completely flushed, you can seal up the drain valve and fill the tank back up. Make sure you turn on a faucet in the house so that any excessive air pockets can escape the tank and water lines.

For a more in depth look at anode rod maintenance and performing a tank water heater flush, check out this informative video!

Advanced Tankless Water Heater Maintenance

As stated above, tankless-style water heaters with not have the issues that come along with stored water. Their primary maintenance focus is on preventing and removing mineral scale buildup within the heating chamber and pipes.

Descaling and Flushing the System – Tap water contains minerals like calcium and magnesium that can build up on and erode the walls inside the water heater, blocking water flow and decreasing efficiency. Therefore, it is recommended to flush your appliance at least once a year (maybe even every 6 months if your water supply is significantly hard).

We can’t say it enough – make sure to cut off the gas or power before flushing out your system! You should also close the water lines to and from the heater before servicing. Next you will want to connect a hose to each service valve (shown above). The hose attached to the “cold water in” line should connect to a submersible pump in a bucket, and the hose attached to the “hot water out” line should be emptying into the same bucket.

Add about 3 gallons of descaling solution or white vinegar to the bucket, then turn on the pump to circulate it through the appliance. This process should continue for 30 minutes to an hour. When the flush is complete, seal up the service valves, open the supply valves, and turn the power or gas back on.

Cleaning Water and Air Filters – Most tankless units will have water and/or air intake filters, as well. These should be inspected and cleaned or replaced every 6 months.

For more info, check out this great tutorial on how to flush your tankless water heater system.

Inspecting Water Heaters

Water heaters are one of the big ticket items we look at during our standard home inspections. Our inspectors understand the importance of these systems, and give them the thorough evaluations they deserve.

First of all, we are going to conduct a visual inspection. Any signs of damage or leaking will certainly be noted. The inspector will check for any apparent corrosion, and whether or not a TPR valve is present with a properly sized discharge pipe.

We also want to know if the water is being properly heated. The inspector will test the max temperature of the water from a faucet inside the house, making sure it correlates with the settings on the water heater thermostat. If there are noticeable issues that aren’t apparent from a visible inspection, the inspector will recommend further evaluation from a plumbing specialist.

Our inspectors also want to make sure the environment around the heater is safe and free of any harmful fumes. So they use specialized tools to check for gas leaks at the gas supply lines. They also to make sure the exhaust is exiting the living space properly through the flue by testing for carbon monoxide (as shown below).

Are You In Need of a Home Inspection?

If you are closing on a home in the Colorado Front Range, we hope that you will consider Scott Home Services for your home inspection services! Feel free to visit us online to learn more or contact us to schedule your inspection services today!

The average residential home has a lot of vents – vents for your HVAC system, vents for your attic, a vent for your dryer, a vent for your gas water heater etc. But did you know that your plumbing system also needs vents? In fact, reliable plumbing ventilation is absolutely crucial for a healthy and functioning plumbing system.

What Is Plumbing Ventilation?

Plumbing vent pipes are a network of pipes that extend from your drain lines, up and out through your roof. Their primary role is to regulate the air pressure within your plumbing system. Think of them as the lungs of your home’s plumbing – and without the proper amount of air, your plumbing system cannot “breathe” properly.

Plumbing vents have two primary jobs:

1. They regulate pressure within the pipes and ensure the proper flow of water and wastewater.
2. They serve as an escape route for odorous and potentially harmful sewer gases, keeping your home safe and free of unpleasant smells.

How Does Plumbing Ventilation Work?

Plumbing vents work by maintaining a neutral air pressure within your drain pipes. When water flows down a drain, it creates negative pressure behind it. Without a vent, this negative pressure could create a vacuum, hindering the flow of water, causing slow drainage and even backups.

Improper airflow can also potentially siphon water out of your P-traps. P-traps are the U-shaped bends (shown below) found under virtually every drain in your house. These small segments of piping hold a small amount of water that acts as a seal that blocks sewer gases from backing up into your home.

Without adequate airflow, negative pressure can pull the water out of the P-trap. Now, with no water barrier present, gases and odors can make their way back through your pipes and into the house. That is obviously something no one wants!

In addition to promoting airflow, these vents provide a pathway for gases, such as hydrogen sulfide and methane, to safely escape above the roofline and away from your living spaces. This dual action of airflow and gas release is essential for a well-functioning and odor-free plumbing system.

Common Issues Associated with Insufficient Plumbing Vents

In order to function properly, vent pipes must remain open. So it follows that they can occasionally become damaged by exterior elements, or clogged by debris such as leaves, animal nests, dirt, ice, or snow. Without the proper ventilation, it is likely you will experience some of the following symptoms:

• Sewer Odors – If vents are blocked or damaged, sewer gases cannot escape properly and may be forced back into your home through drains.
• Slow Drainage –  Blocked vents mean no airflow in the plumbing system, hindering the ability of drains to empty quickly.
• Gurgling Sounds – Gurgling sounds in drains or bubbling toilets is a tell-tale sign that you may have air pressure problems in your pipes.
• Ineffective Flushing – Without proper ventilation, liquid will not exit the toilet as quickly as usual. In some cases, the toilet might not drain at all.

Inspecting Plumbing Ventilation

Our home inspectors are not plumbers. However, during our standard home inspections, there are a number of ways we can inspect your plumbing system. Our inspectors always walk the roof, when accessible. In the cases that roof access is available, the inspector is able to look at each vent, searching for any signs of damage or obstructions. During winter months (if the roof is walkable), inspectors will check to make sure there is no snow or ice buildup within the vents.

During the interior portion of the inspection, we always run all sinks and flush all toilets to test functionality. Inspectors will take note note of any abnormally slow drainage. Of course, this could mean there is some type of backup or clog in the plumbing. But it could also mean that there is a ventilation issue.

As stated above, strange sounds such as gurgling or bubbling could indicate poor venting. So the inspectors will make sure to listen closely for anything out of the ordinary.

Let’s not forget to use our noses! Our inspectors will certainly be vigilant for any unusual or foul smells and make note of it in the report. This could definitely indicate ventilation problems.

However, sometimes smelly odors just means that the P-trap has dried up. We see it a lot in vacant properties. If water has not been run through piping over an extended period of time, the liquid in the P-trap can evaporate, allowing gases to make their way into the living space. This can often be fixed by simply running water through the piping periodically.

When issues do arise, sometimes it’s hard to pinpoint exactly what’s going on. It may be best to look inside the plumbing. That’s why we offer sewer scope inspections. During this specialized inspection, we run a camera through your drainage system to examine its current condition and try to identify any issues that may be present. If/when we do identify a problem, our inspector will recommend further evaluation or repair by a qualified plumbing professional.

Conclusion

While they often remain out of sight and out of mind, plumbing vents are essential for a healthy and functional home plumbing system. Understanding their role and being aware of potential issues will help you keep your drains flowing smoothly and your home smelling fresh. Regular maintenance, such as periodically checking your vents, clearing vent openings, and pruning nearby trees etc. can help prevent serious venting issues from occurring down the road.  So be kind to those pipes sticking out of your roof, and remember the vital work they are doing behind the scenes!

In need of Home Inspection Services? Book with Scott Home Services! Visit online to learn more or book your inspection today!

A backflow preventer is one of the unsung heroes of our residential plumbing systems. These devices are crucial in preventing issues such as water contamination, sewage backups, or basement flooding. But what are they, and why are they so important? In this blog, we will get to the bottom of it!

What Causes Backflow?

To understand what a backflow preventer is, we must first understand what backflow is.

In the simplest terms, “backflow” is liquid or waste flowing in the incorrect direction in which the system was designed. This can happen on supply and drain lines and can occur for different reasons.

In pressured supply lines, things get a little more complicated. Water travels from a higher pressure to a lower pressure. This simple concept allows a city water department to distribute H2O to residential homes. Water is channeled through a main line at a high pressure, which branches off to individual houses, stepping down the pressure along the way.

But on certain rare occasions, the downstream water pressure may become higher than the pressure from the main, causing the water to change directions, also known as backflow. When the normal flow of water has reversed, serious issues can arise, as it can draw potentially contaminated water back into a potable water line. How do we avoid this issue? In the comes the backflow preventer!

What Is A Backflow Preventer?

A backflow preventer (or BFP) is a valve that has one simple function – allowing liquid to flow one direction, and stopping it from flowing in the opposite direction. There are several different types of these devices, and they are generally utilized in two main settings: irrigation systems and drainage systems.

Backflow Preventers on Irrigation Systems

If you have a sprinkler system at home, you likely have a backflow preventer. Being that irrigation systems are often buried and exposed to outdoor elements, it is possible for contaminants such as chemicals or waste to find their way into the irrigation lines.

For instance, you may have pets that access your lawn to do their business. Or maybe you use fertilizer, pesticides or weed killer. Rain can wash all of these contaminants into the soil. And in the case where negative pressure pulls liquids back into your irrigation lines, you now all of a sudden have contaminated liquid traveling back toward your potable water supply. But, as you can guess, the backflow preventer will save the day! They are installed between your fresh water supply and the main irrigation line, effectively keeping the two lines separate.

These apparatuses are such an important safeguard, that Colorado building code requires them in most setups involving irrigation.

During our standard inspections, we always test the sprinkler systems (when the season permits). While running the sprinklers, our inspectors make sure that BFPs are properly installed and free of any leaks, damage or defects. We usually come across Pressure Vacuum Breaker (PVB) backflow preventers, like the one shown below. This style of device is most commonly found in residential homes with smaller irrigation systems.

Note that, while we do conduct this general BFP inspection, we are not plumbing professionals. And it is recommended to have your backflow preventer tested annually by a qualified pro.

Backflow Preventers on Drainage Systems

Backflow preventers in drainage pipes, also know as backwater valves, are constructed differently than ones used for irrigation. However, the same concept applies. Water can only travel one way. As the diagram below illustrates, this device can be installed seamlessly on the sewer line of a home. If water is flowing in the correct direction, the flap will remain in a downward position, allowing all waste and liquid to pass. However, if the flow reverses, the flap will float to its upward position, effectively obstructing any backflow of sewage.

These devices are especially effective in areas susceptible to flooding or below the municipal sewer main. In the case that a heavy rainfall occurs or there is a blockage in the municipal line, it will help to prevent any serious flooding from occurring in the basement of the home.

During our standard inspections, we are able to inspect these valves when they are readily available. Unfortunately, they are often under ground or connected to an outside sweep. However, if we can see it, we ask a few questions. Is the clean-out cap intact and in good condition? Is the area free of any visible leaks or damage?

During our sewer scope inspections, our inspectors are often able to see the BFP from within the pipe. We are not experts on these devices, but we will be sure to make note when they are present. If there is an access point before the device, our technicians are able to scope up the BF preventer. We can also inspect the line after the valve, if any accessible clean outs are available.

We, unfortunately, cannot scope through the valve as it can cause damage to our sewer scope camera and the valve. This can make scoping a line with a backflow preventer tricky as they aren’t always installed in the most ideal spot.

For more information about our sewer scope inspections, visit us online.

Conclusion

As you can see, backflow preventers are essential devices in both irrigation and drainage systems. They defend the clean water supply and protect buildings from water contamination and damage, making them a must in many household settings!

If you have any further questions about backflow preventers, don’t hesitate to reach out to us through our Ask Your Inspector program.

In need of home inspection services? Try Scott Home Services!

Scott Home Services is a veteran home inspection company, and we have proudly served the Colorado Front Range for over 18 years. We offer a long list of inspection services, including standard home inspections, radon testing, water quality testing, pest inspections and more!

Visit us online to learn more, or contact us to book your services today.

Lift stations can be found in many residential homes, and play an integral part in managing wastewater flow. They are typically located on the lowest level of the building, such as a basement. We will often have clients wondering what they are, sometimes confusing them with sump pumps.

While a lift station does function similarly to a sump pump, it certainly serves a different purpose. We wanted to set the record straight about lift stations. So naturally, we decided to write a blog about them!

What Is A Lift Station?

A lift station (also know as a pump station or sewage ejector pump) is an electronically powered pump that is designed to transport liquid (sewage) from a lower elevation to a higher elevation. These devices are implemented in scenarios where wastewater cannot drain toward the main city line or septic tank through gravity and slope alone.

How Does It Work?

Wastewater is drained into the tank of the lift station, commonly referred to as a wet well. The pump, which is either located at the bottom of the wet well or just outside of it, is attached to a float switch. As the wet well fills and the water level rises, the float will rise until it reaches a pre-determined threshold. Upon reaching this point, the float will activate a switch that tells the pump to turn on and begin moving the water out of the tank.

The wastewater is pumped out of the tank and up into the main residential waste line, which subsequently travels to the main city sewer line or a septic tank.  The pump will continue to work until the float reaches a desired point below the threshold.

Why Are Lift Stations Used?

One of the common scenarios that will call for lift stations is when the main drain line is located above certain drainage elements in a home. This is especially common with basements.

Say you are renovating your basement and want to add a bathroom. Since there was no prior drainage lines located in the basement, there will be nowhere to channel the basement wastewater by natural flow. This is a job for the lift station! All the basement drainage can be directed into a wet well and then lifted up to the main drainage line on the floor above.

A lift station is a great alternative to costly excavation projects. Instead of having to dig down far enough to allow basement drainage to successfully leave a home through natural flow, many builders will utilize a lift station. That way they will not not have to dig as deep, thus saving time and money.

Lift stations are also used when the city sewer main is higher than the drain lines in the lower parts of a home. When building a home, contractors obviously can’t adjust the depth of the city sewer line. So instead, they must make sure that the main line leaving the home is at a higher elevation than the city line. Lift stations will help to move any wastewater up to that optimal elevation. This is really common to see in older neighborhoods where city pipes were installed years before basement finishes were popularized.

You also see lift stations in homes where septic systems are present. Because septic systems are generally installed close to the surface, there isn’t always a big elevation change between the home and the septic tank. Because you need a certain amount of “fall” in your pipe, often times a lift station is needed if a basement is present.

Lift Stations Vs. Sump Pumps

As stated above, lift stations do bear certain similarities with sump pumps – both are pits in the ground, usually located in basements. However, there are several defining characteristics that separate the two.

The main difference between these two devices is their respective functions. We have already talked about a lift station’s purpose – it is meant to move sewage from a low point to a high point. The sump pump’s function is to collect and remove any water that makes its way into the home underground. In other words, it protects your basement from flooding rain or ground water.

They also both have several physical features that set them apart. First, lift stations usually have bolted lids in order to keep hazardous sewage fumes from entering the living space. On the contrary, sump pumps generally will have removable lids and you can usually view into the pit through some type of hole or a clear lid.

Additionally, a sump pump will usually only have one pipe coming out of its top (as shown above) – the discharge pipe, while a lift station has two pipes. One pipe is to allow for ventilation and the other is the discharge pipe.

Finally, the devices differ based off of where they discharge their respective liquids. A sump pump’s discharge pipe will normally run through the foundational wall and expel excess liquid somewhere outside of the home. The lift station, on the other hand, ejects wastewater from its tank directly into the main sewer line of the home.

Inspecting Lift Stations

While our inspectors do not physically open a lift station to inspect its inside, they can take several other steps to evaluate its condition and functionality.

They can, of course, conduct a visual inspection to ensure there are no leaks and that all visible parts are intact and in good condition. They also test the outlet from which the lift station is powered to make sure it is operational. Finally, they will run water to make sure that the pump is kicking on properly. Keep in mind that it’s always a good idea to have your lift station periodically inspected and tested by a plumbing specialist.

We hope that this article has given you more insight into the functions and uses of lift stations. If you have any questions, you can feel free to reach out to us through our Ask Your Inspector program.

If you are based in Colorado and are in need of home inspection services, we hope you consider Scott Home Services. Visit us online for more information or contact us to book your services today!

It has happened to the best of us. The fateful day where you finally have to change out that old dinosaur of a water heater living in your basement. This is hopefully because you knew it was nearing its end, rather than waking up to a basement full of water!

Whatever the cause, water heater replacement isn’t ever a fun thing to do. However, there are a few different options that must be considered before you make an investment in your home. Here are a few things to consider.

To Tank Or Not To Tank (Do I Need a Tankless Water Heater?)

Often times, people go with the cheapest option for a water heater replacement, which is a standard tank water heater. But there are a ton of advantages to purchasing a new tankless water heater system instead. Tankless units come in both gas and electric models, and can be a direct replacement for a standard tank unit.

Most tankless units mount on a wall and are roughly the size of a medium suitcase. When a faucet or fixture is turned on and hot water is needed, the tankless unit immediately activates, running cold water over a heat exchanger to increase its temperature.

The system will consume only the amount of energy relative to the amount of hot water demanded at a faucet or fixture. That is why these units are often referred to as “instant” or “on-demand” water heaters. When using an older tank style water heater, you end up heating water in your unit all day long regardless of if you are using it or not. On the contrary, tankless water heaters only heat water when needed or called for.

Water Heater Replacement with a Solar Hot Water System

Advances in solar technology and storage systems make it a great time to consider installing a solar hot water system.

The systems from the ’70s have come a long way in many respects. However, the concept remains the same – pull some energy from that big orange thing in the sky and convert it into heat for your hot water system.

Most solar hot water systems consist of a number of solar panels mounted outside; piping and a pump system to circulate a water or glycol mixture through the panel; and a special storage tank inside the home that collects the circulated liquid, which then heats water in that tank.

Typically, another conventional water heater is present for cloudy days, but the majority of the heating is done by the sun. We have even seen tankless units acting as the backup source. But the incoming water is pre-heated by the solar system, and the tankless unit only does the small amount of work to raise the temps up to your desired level, if needed.

Comparing Water Heaters: Pros and Cons

Standard Efficiency

If you are looking for the cheapest up-front price and installation cost, the best option is a standard efficiency tank water heater. These types of systems have relatively straightforward venting configurations and plumbing attachments. Therefore, it’s a feasible installation job for the savvy DIYer. Additionally, it has minimal electrical components. So finding parts and service providers will usually come at a reasonable price.

On the other hand, as its name suggests, this type of water heater is going to be the least efficient option. These heaters can lose up to 20% percent of the heat they produce through exhaust. They also require access to outdoor combustion air, in order to operate safely and properly.

High Efficiency

As you may have guessed, the high efficiency (HE) water heater is going to be more energy-efficient than the standard option. It is configured to optimize its combustion process and extract as much energy as possible during the process, using 90% or more of its generated energy. A more efficient system also means that it will heat water faster than its standard counterpart. HE water heaters help you to minimize wasted energy over time, and thus save money in the long run!

However, they are more complex devices than standard efficiency heaters. So they are going to be more expensive to purchase and install. It is crucial to have these systems installed and operating correctly. This makes it more necessary to hire a licensed pro to install and maintain your HE heater.

Tankless

The tankless water heater option is going to be even more energy efficient, as it only initiates the heating process when hot water is needed (as discussed above). So you’ll be looking at long-term energy and money savings. It also takes up much less space than a tank water heater, which could be an ideal option if you have limited utility room space. Another tankless pro is that they generally have longer life spans than tank systems. With the proper maintenance and care, you can expect your tankless water heater to last you 15-20 years.

On the downside, tankless heaters usually cost more to purchase and install than tank heaters. Also, its “on demand” quality means you won’t have your heated water as quickly as with an HE water heater. If you are converting from a tanked water heater, you generally have to change your venting type and might even need a larger gas line which can quickly increase costs.

Additionally, due to its size, a tankless system might not be able to provide sufficient heated water for multiple, simultaneous usages in large homes. For instance, if you are taking a shower, running the dishwasher and doing a load of laundry all at the same time, a tankless may not be able to provide sufficient heat to all 3 areas at once. You have to make sure to size your unit property to your home size.

Solar

The best part about solar water heating is that all you need is the sun. So if you live in an area that receives substantial sunlight, you could be getting your hot water for free! In addition, solar could be used to power other components of your home. This could effectively help you cut lots of energy costs over time.

However, the very feature that sets it apart from the other systems also acts as its primary flaw. Simply put- no sun equals no solar energy. So if it’s particularly cloudy or overcast, you might not receive enough solar energy to heat water to your desired temp. This is why a supplementary water heating device is recommended along with the solar. You might have also guessed that installation costs for solar panels can be quite costly.

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It’s true that a standard efficiency tank unit may cost you the least to install. But by taking the time to research your options and weigh the overall cost of ownership, you may find that upgrading to a high efficiency tank unit, a tankless unit, or even a solar hot water system might be right for you. We recommend that you take the time to explore these options with your local plumbing expert.

What is Involved with Water Heater Installation?

In reality, a water heater is one of the simplest appliances in your home. You have cold water in, hot water out, and a power source.  If you have an electric unit, there is usually a 220V connection to your unit.  If it’s a gas unit you have a natural gas or propane pipe connecting to the gas valve built into the unit.

Water heater replacement involves shutting off the water supply, disconnecting the power connection, draining excess water, and swapping in the new unit. Overflow drain pans are recommended on all tank units with new and replacement installations.

If you are upgrading to a tankless or high-efficiency unit, there may be additional considerations related to venting, proper gas line sizing, etc. It’s not as straightforward as a standard tank water heater, so it’s best to hire a professional. The same, of course, goes for the solar water heater configuration.

What is the Best Water Heater System for You?

Unfortunately, there is no one-size-fits-all answer. Each home and each homeowner has unique needs. When considering water heater replacement, it’s all about weighing the pros and cons to make an informed, educated decision.

Explore all options and consider the long-term costs of ownership in your decision. There are many great options and your choice will have long-term impacts on your monthly operating costs and performance of the system.

For more articles and feedback on home maintenance items, visit our Ask Your Inspector section of our website.

Consider Scott Home Inspection for all your home inspection needs! Read more about our Inspection Services.

When it comes to heating homes, there is a multitude of ways to get the job done. Whether you are using a furnace, a boiler, a heat pump or any other mechanism, there will always be pros and cons. But what happens when you combine two different systems and pair their redeeming qualities together? That’s just the case with hydronic forced air heating. This advanced method combines the efficiency of water-based heating with the widespread distribution capabilities of forced air. So how does it work?

What Is Hydronic Forced Air Heating?

Hydronic forced air is a unique system that combines a high efficiency water heater or boiler paired with an air handler. When you turn up the heat on the thermostat, water is heated up inside the water heater or boiler. Next the water is pumped out of the heating source, and through piping that runs into the air handler.

Air is then forced across this now heated tubing, and subsequently pushed to the living space(s) through ducts by a blower fan. The air can now heat your living space to your desired temperature! With the addition of an outdoor condenser, these systems can also come equipped with cooling capabilities. This process may sound familiar as it uses similar technology to heat pumps and AC units.

Where Is Hydronic Forced Air Used?

This type of method can technically be used in any type of home, as long as there is space for the necessary equipment and ductwork. However, we don’t see it too often in smaller single family homes.

It is most commonly found in large commercial or apartment buildings with multiple floors and independent units that require individual climates. At Scott Home Services, we perform standard home and rental inspections on multi-family apartment complexes. So our inspectors come across hydronic forced air systems frequently.

Hydronic Forced Air To The Rescue!

This technique is especially useful in apartments for several reasons. First of all, it eliminates the need of installing individual furnaces or boilers for each unit. You can imagine the amount of time and effort it would take to install individual heating/cooling systems per unit in one of these large, multi-floor Denver apartment buildings. It takes additional venting, and space, and adds a host of new regulations when you add another fuel-burning appliance to a unit.

Instead, many buildings will install large boilers or water heaters in a main utility room. Then they send individual water lines to each apartment unit. Once these lines have entered a dwelling, they are fed through an air handler (like the one shown below), which distributes conditioned air to the living space.

This unique hybrid method is also efficient when it comes to optimizing the use of building materials. Because water lines are sent from the heating source (i.e. boiler or water heater) directly to each unit, there is no need for ductwork until after the piping reaches the air handler. As a result, builders are able to cut down drastically on duct construction.

In addition to ducting, if the the domestic hot water and boiler are hosted in a large community utility room, it has the added benefit of not needing to run gas piping to each unit!

Conversely, the system transitions from hydronic to forced air once entering an apartment. That means that piping is not needed for any type of radiant heating within the space. Using a hydronic radiant heating method for every unit would not only be costly but also very time-consuming. So builders are able to save money and installation time with this hybrid technique.

But this doesn’t just benefit the builders. As an owner or a tenant of these units, a hydronic heating system reduces the maintenance and upkeep needed. Since the boiler then serves the whole building, they are generally maintained by the building staff. That means that replacing air filters and ensuring the blower is operational is all you need to do. If the blower is fed with a water heater in the unit, then you would maintain the water heater as you would anywhere else.

How Do We Inspect These Systems?

We proudly serve a wide geographical area, from Wellington all the way to Colorado Springs. That means that we are inspecting a lot of multi-family dwellings. When inspecting any heating configuration in a home, our inspectors employ a two-step process – visual and operational.

First, they will visually inspect all accessible components of the system. Of course, there are many parts hidden behind the drywall. And inspecting a large heating unit that services a whole building is out of the scope of our standard inspection. However, we can usually gain access to the air handler, which can likely be found in the bathroom or hallway ceiling (as shown below), or in a utility closet. The inspector will look for any noticeable defects or damage, and report as necessary.

Secondly, we will turn on the heat and air conditioning (if the season permits it). Our inspectors utilize an infrared thermometer to measure the temperature of the air exiting the supply vents. In the case that the air is not reaching the temp selected on the thermostat, we will recommend further evaluation and repair.

Unfortunately, we are at the mercy of the building cycles. Often larger buildings in Colorado will shut down their boilers and turn on their chillers for the summer. This is common practice and in that scenario, we can’t test the heat. However, since the boilers and chillers use the same blower, we can still evaluate what’s present.

Are you in need of a Colorado home or rental inspection? Scott Home Services has got you covered! Visit us online to learn more or contact us to book your inspection services today!

We can all relate to those hot summer days when the sun is beating down on your car. You buckle up into the driver’s seat and the interior is red hot! This is all because the sun’s heat has travelled as radiant energy to the surfaces in your car.

This simple concept has been applied in the residential setting as a way to efficiently and effectively heat a home. It is known as radiant heating.

What Is Radiant Heating?

Radiant heating is a system that utilizes the energy radiated from a heated source to warm objects and surfaces within a space. Pipes or cables are run through designated zones of a building – either in floors, walls, ceilings or radiator units.

Then they are heated with water, steam, or electricity.  These pipes or cables radiate heat, which warms the surrounding surfaces, subsequently traveling into the living space. It is a common technique used as an alternative to HVAC-based heating methods, such as furnaces.

The Types of Residential Radiant Heating

Hydronic Radiant Floor Heating

This is one of the most common styles of radiant heating. Tubing (usually PEX or rubber) is installed in evenly spaced, winding curves under the floor of a designated area.

Hot water is then circulated through these pipes effectively warming the surrounding surfaces. The heat then radiates off of the surfaces into the air. And voila – you have a nice, warm room!

When it comes to hydronic heating systems, there is more than one way to get the water heated and flowing through the pipes. The different systems are as follows:

• Boilers – These devices are very common in households and use a fuel source – such as gas, propane, oil or electricity – to heat water or steam in a combustion chamber. Once sufficiently heated, the liquid or steam will release into the connected system of tubing out to heat the home. Newer wall mounted condensing boilers are more commonly seen today. They look like tankless water heaters and use the same technology, but they have a higher BTU output.

• Geothermal Heat Pumps – This is a unique technique that uses the natural underground temperature of the earth to heat and cool the interior of the home. This involves burying a loop of piping below the frost line of the soil. The loop is filled with water combined with anti-freeze. The solution then circulates underground, absorbs the earth’s heat, then carries that heated liquid to a pump in the house, which distributes it throughout the house.

• Water Heater – In smaller apartments and ADUs, you will occasionally see the heater water lines come directly off of the domestic hot water heater. This is usually a high-efficiency tanked unit that has a higher output to feed the additional demand.

Hydronic Radiant Wall and Ceiling Heating

Radiant wall and ceiling heating systems use the same technology as in-floor heating, but instead in the walls and ceilings. These are constructed with tubes that wind back and forth across aluminum sheets.

Electric Radiant Heating Systems

This style of heating is similar to hydronic heating. It can be installed in the floor, walls or ceiling. But instead of tubes with flowing liquid, this system uses electrical heating cables.

Electric radiant heating is desirable to some because it does not pose the same leaking risks as hydronic heating. However, it can be a very costly way to heat a space. So, many people only use it as a supplemental heat source, or in small spaces, such as an add-on guest room or office.

Radiators 

The radiator system is one of the oldest methods used for heating residential homes. Radiators come in different shapes and sizes, but they are all generally constructed with heat-conductive metal and have “fins” that are designed to radiate heat.

As the diagram shows below, a radiator will be connected to a boiler, which sends steam or hot water to the radiator unit. The hot liquid then travels through radiator coils, heating up the fins to the desired temperature. Different styles of radiators include the classic column radiator (shown in the diagram below), single and double panel radiators, vertical radiators, and baseboard radiators.

Because of the classic aesthetic and the difficulty of changing the heating system in high-rise buildings, many of these radiators are still in use today.

The Pros Of Radiant Heating

Comfort 

Radiant heating systems are praised for their ability to evenly heat a space – especially in-floor systems. Also, many of them are split up into individual zones. So you can easily set the desired temperature for each particular zone.

Energy Efficiency

Radiant heating systems can be more energy efficient than forced-air systems, as they operate at lower temperatures and do not have duct losses. In addition, the ability to utilize zones allows you to choose which zones to heat without expending extra energy on unused spaces in the house.

This can result in reduced energy consumption overall and lower energy bills.

Space Saving

Radiant heat systems will take up less space than forced air systems. As discussed above, radiant heating is either installed in the floor, wall, ceiling, or some form of radiator. The heat is supplied through compact tubes or cables. This means that no bulky ductwork is needed.

Health Benefits

Radiant heating means that no air is being pushed. That means that no allergens, dust, germs, or odors are being moved throughout the home. That’s why many people who are extra sensitive to air contaminants find radiant heating to be the more favorable option.

The Cons

High Installation Costs

Upfront costs for radiant systems, especially hydronic, will generally be higher than HVAC configurations. Also, retrofitting any home with that type of equipment is very costly, as it requires major renovations. But keep in mind that the energy saved down the road could prove to make up for the initial investment.

Slower Response Time

When dialing in a temperature change, radiant heat systems can take a bit more time than the forced air method. It takes time to heat up the source and subsequently radiate heat uniformly into a space.

Inspecting Radiant Heating Systems

Having a reliable heating source is a very important part of any residential Colorado home. That’s why our inspectors always take a good look at the heating equipment. This includes a visual assessment of all the accessible components, and an operational test, when possible.

Of course, a lot of these heating system components will be hidden under floors or behind walls or ceilings. However, our inspectors can utilize infrared scanning technology to determine whether or not the heating equipment is functioning properly.

The two photos below are infrared photos of radiant floor heating. As you can see, the temperature differentials are indicated by different colors. Yellow means warm, which indicates that these systems are working!

Here at Scott Home Inspection, we have been helping Colorado families live in safe, healthy and comfortable homes for 18+ years. And it would be our pleasure to help you! If you need a home inspection, feel free to visit us online to learn more, or contact us today!

When we inspect homes, plumbing is one of the major systems we observe. And having conducted thousands of inspections over 18 years, it follows that we have seen a lot of different plumbing configurations. Some plumbing materials and components have stood the test of time and proven to be reliable. However, there are quite a few that are not so reliable. In this blog, we will discuss the once popular Zurn PEX fittings, and why they are not used anymore.

What Are Zurn PEX Fittings?

PEX (cross-linked polyethylene), is a plastic piping material that has been widely used for residential plumbing since the early 90s. It has been become a sought after alternative to materials such as PVC and copper due to its flexibility, durability and ease of installation.

Zurn PEX fittings (sometimes also know as Q PEX) were subsequently designed to be compatible with PEX piping segments. These brass fittings, which were manufactured by a large plumbing supplies company called Zurn Industries, were sold for residential use between 1996 and 2010. They gained popularity due to their strength and resistance to corrosion.

However, much like Kitec piping, they turned out to be problematic in many homes across America, causing leaking, cracking and bursting pipes.

What’s the Problem with These Fittings?

Dezincification

Brass is an alloy (or mixture) of copper and zinc. While this alloy is meant to be resistant to corrosion, the zinc in it can actually be highly reactive to certain elements present in water sources. Similar to Kitec piping’s brass fittings, these Zurn PEX fittings can experience a reaction called dezincification.

When the water supply is too acidic or alkaline, or if it has elevated levels of oxygen or carbon dioxide, the zinc will corrode over time. A tell-tale sign of dezincification is the white, powdery substance that accumulates on the fitting (shown below). Once the zinc is stripped from the alloy, the resulting metal is much weaker and tends to become porous. This then leads to the premature failure of the fittings.

Lawsuit

Numerous homeowners have experienced the negative effects of these fittings firsthand. The problematic fitting model was specifically F1807, which can be identified by the word “Q PEX” stamped on its side (pictured below). In some cases, Zurn PEX fittings have failed catastrophically, resulting in serious water damage and costly repairs. Over time, these incidents resulted in multiple lawsuits against Zurn Industries. The company finally agreed to pay out a $20 million settlement.

Just to be clear, although fitting model F1807 turned out be problematic, Zurn is still in business and manufacturing many products that have no concerns.

Inspecting for Zurn PEX Fittings

PEX piping is easy to identify, as it generally comes in bright red and blue (and sometimes orange or gray). So when conducting a home inspection, our inspectors will definitely know when they come across PEX. We always make sure to observe all the fittings, where accessible. When we do see Zurn PEX brass fittings, we know to look extra carefully for any signs of corrosion, leaks or damage.

Even if no damage or defects are visible, we still make note of the material, and inform our clients of its potential issues. Oftentimes, it might even be best to hire a plumbing specialist for further evaluation. But keep in mind that the presence of these fittings does not always mean that replacement is necessary.

At Scott Home Inspection, a division of Scott Home Services, we are all about providing you with the most thorough and transparent home inspections. That way you are comfortable and informed when deciding on whether or not to purchase a home.

If you are in need of any home inspection services, we’d love to help! Visit us online to learn more, or contact us to book your inspection today!

When it comes to residential construction, we are always trying to push forward as a society. We are searching for the most cost effective, efficient, and long-lasting building techniques. This has certainly yielded many successful methods and materials throughout history…but not always. In this blog, we will discuss a particular plumbing pipe that caused serious issues for thousands of homeowners nationwide – Polybutylene Piping.

What is Polybutylene Piping?

Polybutylene (aka Poly B or PB) is a plastic pipe material that was utilized for plumbing supply lines from 1978 to 1995. Similar to Kitec plumbing, it was more affordable than copper and easier to install. PB was also hailed for its flexibility and resistance to freezing. It can usually be identified by its gray color, but it is also known to come in blue, black or white. It is also generally marked with the code “PB2110.”

Throughout the late 70s through the late 90s, PB became a very popular alternative material for many plumbers in the US and Canada, and it was said to have been installed in around 10 million homes during its prominence.

However, it soon became apparent that this style of plumbing was quite problematic. Leaking and pipe damage became commonplace in many homes with Poly B piping. What initially seemed to be a viable alternative to copper, soon became the cause of plumbing nightmares all across North America.

What’s Wrong with Polybutylene Piping?

Sensitivity to Disinfecting Chemicals

Water treatment facilities will often add chemicals, such as chlorine, to potable water supplies. This is a common practice used to kill any harmful germs or bacteria present in the water. Unfortunately, it turned out that Polybutylene was sensitive to these types of chemicals.

Prolonged exposure to these disinfectants would cause the piping to flake away from the inside out. Over time this would lead to leaks, cracks or ruptures. Furthermore, as the plastic elements break down, they can enter the water supply and pose potential health threats.

This type of defect is particularly deceiving because it cannot be identified by simply looking at the pipe. It may seem perfectly fine from the outside, but it’s actually deteriorating on the inside.

Faulty Fittings

Plastic fittings were commonly used for Poly B piping. The piping segments would be slid over the plastic fittings then crimped down with metal rings. However, these fittings were not very reliable and prone to cracking and leaking over time. Just like the piping itself, the plastic fittings are vulnerable to chemical deterioration.

Installation error was also sometimes the cause of fitting issues. During installation, the metal crimping rings must be tightened around the junction between pipe and fitting. But there was a super fine line between, too loose, too tight, or just right. As a result, fittings would be secured too tightly, causing cracking, or fastened too loosely resulting in leaking.

A good portion of plumbing is hidden behind drywall. So in many cases, PB pipes would start to leak into wall, ceiling or floor cavities unbeknownst to the homeowner. This would result in severe water damage or mold issues. And that is why many plumbers will often recommend a full piping replacement.

Lawsuit

Poly B was a real problem for many homeowners – so much so that class action lawsuits were filed against its manufacturers for a settlement of over $1 billion. The lawsuit, entitled Cox v. Shell Oil Company, granted money to homeowners who experienced damages or losses caused by PB piping failure. If you have read our article about Kitec plumbing, you will note that it has had a very similar history to Polybutylene.

Resale, Mortgage, and Insurance Issues

The lawsuit may have helped many Poly B homeowners to replace the problematic plumbing. However, the piping has certainly not been eradicated from all households.

Some fortunate homeowners might not have any issues with their PB up to this point. But even so, the presence of Polybutylene could still negatively affect the value of their home. After getting a home inspection, prospective buyers will surely learn about the piping and how it has a high probability of failure. Knowing that they will likely have to deal with pricy plumbing repairs or eventually get the PB replaced altogether might discourage a buyer from committing to a deal. Homeowners with Poly B will likely have to get it replaced or disclose the presence of the piping in any future transaction, resulting in negotiations or concessions.

This same concept applies to mortgages and insurance. Mortgage companies might be hesitant to lend money for a home that’s prone to costly damages. And insurance companies might require higher premiums or deny coverage completely. If coverage is given, a claim might be denied if the piping causes water damage.

Inspecting for PB Piping

As a seasoned home inspection company, we realize that even if there are no issues at the time of inspection, it is important know what problems could happen in the future. We want our clients to be armed with as much knowledge as possible, in order to make the best decision possible.

So when we see a material like Polybutylene – one that has such a potential for failure – we address it with the appropriate seriousness. We will always recommend further evaluation from a qualified plumbing specialist.

Here at Scott Home Inspection, it is our goal to provide you with the most professional, thorough and unbiased home inspection. If you are in need of Colorado-based inspection services, we hope that you will consider Team Scott. Visit us online or contact us to schedule you services today!